by Mariann Lawrence

So, you finally decided to enter your first show. Whether your cat is a lovable household pet or a stunning pedigreed cat, his chances are equal to win in his class. You are about to enter a world of interesting sights, new people, and lots of fun for both of you.

CARRIER!

You must have a carrier to transport your cat to and from the show. Airline approved carriers are the best. They are sturdy and will keep your cat safe while traveling. These carriers are available in pet stores and are sold by companies who advertise in cat magazines. Cardboard carriers are not recommended for this type of travel. CAGE

CURTAINS!

These curtains are used to line the inside of your show cage. They will prevent your cat from seeing his neighbors and will ensure privacy and a secure place for your cat to rest between rings. Cage curtains can be as fancy or as plain as your wish. There should be three pieces. One for the floor, one to cover both sides and back, and the last one for the top. The material should be washable, and easy to fasten to the cage. The approximate size of the cage is 22 x 22 x 22. You will be getting your cage ready before the show starts. To make your cat comfortable you may want to include a shelf, bed, and his favorite toy.

OTHER NEEDS!

Your show cage will need a food and water bowl and a litter pan. Usually, the show will have litter and food available. But is always wise to check. If your pet is finicky on what he eats it is better to bring his favorite food. To keep your cat looking good you will need a comb and/or brush. Combs work great for longhairs and a chamois for shorthairs. Claw clippers are essential for keeping your cat’s nails clipped. All shows demand that the claws are clipped, and the judges appreciate not having a frightened cat with long claws. To clip the claws properly you need to clip as far down as possible without cutting the quick (that is the pinkish area before the claw). Remember to do front and back.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST!

You may want to bring paper bags to dispose of your garbage. Don’t forget a pen to mark your catalog with. You will need a small suitcase to carry all your paraphernalia. NOW WHAT! You should arrive at the show at least an hour before starting time. When you arrive, you must check in with the entry clerk and they will give you your entry number. Usually, a benching chart is on display, and you locate your number and proceed to the assigned cage. Set up your cage as we explained before, locate the judging rings, so you will know where to go, and check your catalog entry for any possible errors. Listen for your number to be called to each judging ring. Be prompt so not to keep the judge waiting. Between rings visit the vendors, meet the other exhibitors and have fun.

GOOD LUCK AND WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF CAT EXHIBITORS!!!

by Jody L. Rugenstein

From where did your “Show Kitten” come?

Whether you bred your show quality kitten or got him from a reputable breeder, he started being a show cat from the time he was born. Long before he was born if you consider the years of background study, breeding experience, diet, etc. conducted by the breeder prior to his birth. The personality, health and appearance of your kitten come from both genetics and environment.

Infant animals of all types begin brain development before birth. However, immediately after birth, developmental changes occur so rapidly it is past our imagination. Learning experiences and the environment help to shape lifelong behavior. It is never too early to begin helping your kitten to become that “Show Stopper” that we all strive for.

Earliest Training

Most females enjoy showing their babies off. Right from the first moments of birth kits feel that humans are as much a part of their world as “Momma”. As many “strangers” as possible should handle them after they have had their initial series of shots. Your show cat will have a great deal of handling, by you, and by strangers, for its entire life. Training for this handling begins almost from birth. In the kitten’s mind, there is very little difference in laying on your lap being stroked with your hand. To then being placed on a grooming table and groomed with the softest toothbrush and on up through the weeks to being groomed with a steel comb or brush. You will want to teach your cat to enjoy this special time with you. Always end with lots of pats and compliments. You’ll find that the biggest problem is getting them to take turns. A few will think that the entire grooming time should belong to them.

Cats regard eye contact as a signal of aggression. To modify this instinct takes a great deal of patience, but it will pay off in the show ring. It is almost impossible to Judge a Cat or Kitten without making eye contact! From the time that their eyes are open, look into their eyes with love. At the same time, talk to them, pet them and make your kit as comfortable as possible. As they grow up in this type of environment, you should have a Cat who is not threatened by humans.

Just as important, is that their world includes other cats . . . not just their own nest mates. If the baby was born at your home, as early as three to four weeks, take the babies out of their own area and show them to the other cats. Much mutual smelling and getting acquainted goes on at this time. At approximately five to six weeks, try to introduce them to some older kittens and let them try some (very well supervised) play with the “big kids.” This interaction should take place in the baby’s own area. In familiar surroundings, they should have enough self-confidence to accept the older kits and enjoy them. At seven to ten weeks, they should get down and play with everyone and will usually immediately fit right into the clan.

Acquiring a Cat or Kitten from Another Cattery

When this is case, the getting acquainted period is quite different. You will want to isolate the new kit for two weeks. Every cattery has their own bacteria and viruses that the cats have become immune to. Of course, the newcomer has been FELV tested and has a clean bill of health from YOUR vet. They may require this visit in some states to take place within 72 hours, or your sales contract may have time limitations.

Some cats that arrive with health certificates are very questionable. Check for fleas, ear mites, internal parasites, fungus and just over all good condition. A good way to start this check is with a bath, as your hands literally go over every inch of the Cat. The other advantage that an early bath has, is to remove “other cattery” smells.

After your quarantine period we’ve found it wise to cage the cat in the cattery, but separated, from your other cats. This way they can see, smell and get used to the new guy without danger. After a week or so of this you can allow them to mingle. Keep a close eye on things for a period. It’s been our experience that it’s older females who resent strangers. Our guess is that they are afraid of a shift in the pecking order.

by LeAnn Harner

Cat shows are typically held on weekends. Each show features a number of “rings,” each with a different judge. Since the judges are not allowed to compare notes, your cat has a chance to win awards in each ring.

WHO CAN ENTER?

Registered cats and kittens are judged according to a written “standard” for their breed. The standard has been approved by a majority vote of the breeders of that breed within the association.

If you would like to exhibit in one of the classes for registered cats, it would be helpful to consult with the breeder of your cat or kitten, attend a cat show and see other cats or kittens within that breed, or purchase a copy of the standard (contact ACFA) for your breed and see how you think your animal meets the standard before your show. Many registered cats and kittens are sold as pet quality because they do not meet the standard well enough to be show cats in that breed.

If you have purchased a “pet quality” cat or kitten or have a “farm cat” or have rescued a pet, there’s a special category just for you. It’s called the Household Pet (HHP) class.
HHP’s are cats which are more than 8 months old and have been neutered or spayed. They do NOT necessarily meet the standards for a particular breed and ARE NOT judged according to breed standards. Instead, they are evaluated according to health, cleanliness and “purr-sonality.”

PREPARING FOR THE SHOW…

Once you’ve decided to show your cat, you’ll need to obtain information on upcoming shows. Try contacting this club. Be sure to enter in advance of the show! Other preparation includes getting your cat accustomed to being handled by strangers, getting used to a carrier, getting used to other cats and grooming.

Most cats are bathed prior to a show. For cats with greasy coats, bathing once a week for several weeks will make the coat nicer. Longhaired cats generally require the same treatment. Cats should have their nails clipped; ears cleaned.

It is very important that your cat be current on its vaccinations and be in a healthy condition to prevent the spread of disease both to your animal and to others.
Get kitty used to a certain bed or blanket, or, if kitty has a favorite toy, make plans to bring the toy or bed to the show. It is important for kitty to feel as comfortable as possible at the show.

You will need to provide cage curtains for the size cage you have selected. These cover the top, back and sides of the cage and prevent kitty from seeing other cats (and other cats from seeing kitty). These may be fancy custom-made items to sheets or towels carefully laid over the cage. Safety pins and binder clips are often used to secure the drapes to the cage. You need to think about drapes earlier than the morning of the show!

ENTERING THE SHOW

Generally, your entry should be received by the entry clerk 2-3 weeks before the show. Check the entry information for an exact entry date and where to send your entry and payment. Payment and entries must be received in advance and are non-refundable. This assures the show committee that you will be present and helps them in planning.

On the entry form, you will be asked for your name, address and phone number, the cat’s name, it’s parents (if known), birthdate, color, registration number (if you are showing a registered cat) and sex. You should indicate if you want a single cage or double cage. Most cages are double ones (Usually 22″ x 22″ x 45″ but check the show flyer for measurements.) and come with dividers. You automatically receive a single cage with each entry. Most people entering one cat will pay for the double cage because it gives their cat more room and keeps them further away from other animals.

THE DAY BEFORE THE SHOW

Time for final preparations. Most people will bathe their cat on this day. If you are showing a purebred cat, it is helpful to contact the breeder and ask about their bathing and grooming regime. Clip the cat’s claws, clean its ears and remove any staining. Pack your show bag.

TYPICAL SUPPLIES TO TAKE

Food & Litter

• Food & Water Dishes
• Food (dry, canned & treats)
• Catnip
• Litter Box & Litter
Cage Curtains:
• Top, Bottom, Sides
• Cage Clips, Safety Pins, Twist Ties
• Cat Beds

Paperwork

• Pen
• Registration Papers
• Confirmation Forms
• Health Papers
• Directions to Show, Hotel Cage Decorations:
• Photos
• Cattery Nameplate
• Breed Info/Displays

Grooming

• Comb
• Q-Tips
• Scissors
• Nail Clippers
• Face Cloth
• Coat Gloss or Anti-Static Mixture
• Lint Brush
• Grooming Stand

In case of emergency

• Shampoo
• Blowdryer
• Deodorizer
• Disinfectant
• Towels

It really helps to make a list and check it twice.

THE DAY OF THE SHOW

Check-in – The entry clerk will be close to the door to give you your catalog and check in your entry. That person will show you the benching chart that indicates where your assigned cage is located. Go to that portion of the show hall and set up your cage. Plan to arrive during the first 15 minutes of check-in. By arriving early, you are giving your kitty time to acclimate to the sights and sounds of the show hall, plus give yourself time to set up.

Transport kitty to the show in a carrier, preferably with paper towels, a bed or cloth towel inside in chance kitty has an “accident.” If it’s cold outside, cover the outside of the carrier with a blanket or towel to prevent kitty from getting a chill, but don’t overheat.

Don’t be concerned about kitty wanting to hide under the bed or crying. Be calm and reassuring. Let kitty sit in your lap. If kitty calms down, you might want to walk through the show hall (away from the judging rings) and let kitty look at the other cats (Not too close – remember, they might spook too.), people and objects. Giving kitty this special time to satisfy his curiosity can help a great deal.

Pull out your catalog and locate your cat’s entry number. This number is probably on a cage on the cage or may be listed on the front of your catalog. If not, locate the classification for your cat (kitten, adult, alter, HHP) and go through the entries one by one until you find your cat. Check to see that the information printed on the page is correct. If not, you need to see the master clerk and make corrections. This is very important! Ask your neighbor or the entry clerk where the master clerk is located. When you make the corrections, be sure to ask the master clerk if the judges will receive the correction, or if you need to tell the clerk in each ring. If you catch a correction before judging starts, it generally is announced to the entire show hall (along with the absent cats and other changes) and the judges will have it in their books. If you are showing a registered cat, it is helpful to bring a copy of the registration certificate in case there are questions!

Go through the catalog and locate the finals page and other information about the Association, other shows, etc. You will find the judging schedule, usually on the back cover or inside back cover. This tells you which ring you are going to first and in what order your cat will visit the other rings.

If you haven’t already done so, introduce yourself to your neighboring exhibitors. Remember that they need time to set up, so don’t bother them when they are working, but offer to help lift a cage or move a carrier if needed. Tell them this is your first show (or second or whatever) and ask about their kitties. Maybe they’ll offer to answer any questions. Regardless, if you do have a question about something regarding the show, ask anyway. If they don’t know or are too busy, you can go to the entry clerk or ask someone in the check-in area.

Most new exhibitors are nervous and excited and transmit those feelings to their cats. You need to remain calm and relaxed. It’s okay to be excited, but take a few deep breaths, particularly before you pick up your kitty and try to be as calm as possible. When your entry number is called, take kitty to the appropriate judging cage and place him inside.
There are chairs by every ring for exhibitors and spectators. Have a seat and watch the judging.

When judging is completed, your cat’s number is turned face downward on the cage and you can take kitty back to the benching cage. Sometimes there are several exhibitors doing this at the same time. Hold back and let the other exhibitors go first, particularly if you only have 1 or 2 cats entered in the show and don’t have to get to another ring. This is show etiquette and simple politeness. Some exhibitors may have four or more entries and may be rushing from ring to ring, especially if they are showing in more than one class. Besides, when taking cats to and from the ring, it’s very easy for the cats to come face to face with each other and upset kitties. Be patient and wait.

After the judging comes FINALS. That’s when the judge picks his top cats. You will hear the announcer calling, “Finals in Ring _ Check your numbers.” You need to go to that ring and see if your cat’s number is on a cage. If so, get kitty and put him in that cage. Write down your finals in your catalog. When finals are completed, you can pick up kitty and, if you wish, ask the judge to sign the ribbon. CONGRATULATIONS!

This procedure continues throughout the day in every ring. Be sure not to leave the show hall until all of the rings and finals have been conducted. Sometimes your cat will be judged in two rings before finals are called in the first ring. It all depends on the schedule. Schedules change, so be alert.

Be a gracious winner and good loser. Meet new friends and have fun!

by Mariann Lawrence

GOOD HOMES

There are not enough homes for the number of dogs and cats we have, and more are being born every day. Every year millions of dogs and cats find their way into shelters and humane societies. Some are lost pets, abandoned pets, or pets that are brought in by their owners because they are now inconvenient or impractical to keep. Millions of dogs and cats will be killed because no one wants them.

FACTS

• In the United States 10,000 humans are born every day. Compare this to the over 50,000 puppies and kittens born in the same 24-hour period. This makes it clear that there can never be enough homes.
• In 6 years, one female dog and its offspring can be the source of 67,000 puppies.
• In 7 years, one female cat and its young can produce 420,000 cats.

MYTHS

• “My pet will get fat and lazy.”…FALSE…Your pet is what he eats…proper diet and exercise will work wonders.
• “My children should experience birth”…Should your child also experience death? Your child should learn the value of animals and the prevention of litters.
• “I want a tough, protective dog”…altering your dog will not affect his protective instinct…All dogs want to protect their loving and caring owners.
• “But my pet is a purebred”…Leave the breeding the professional breeders who are concerned with genetics and proper placement.
• “It costs too much to fix my pet”…Cost depends on the sex of the animal, its size and age. There are many groups and communities that have many low-cost options. Check with your Veterinarian and local shelters.

The cost of altering your pet is much cheaper than the cost of having a litter…i.e., veterinarian check-ups, special diet, feeding and medical cost for kittens or puppies. Don’t forget advertising costs and sitting by the phone waiting for buyers. The WORST is what to do with the leftover puppies and kittens.

HELPING YOUR PET, YOURSELF AND YOUR COMMUNITY

• Altering your pet allows him/her to live a longer and healthier life.
• A neutered male has less chance of developing prostate cancer.
• Spaying a female dog eliminates the possibility of uterine or ovarian cancer and greatly reduces the chances of breast cancer.
• Altered pets are more affectionate and loving companions.
• Spaying a female dog will eliminate the mess of having her go through heat two times a year.
• Spaying a female cat will end the constant crying.
• Stud dogs and Toms will no longer visit if your female is spayed.
• Unaltered pets tend to exhibit behavior and temperament problems.
• Unaltered male cats tend to spray, run away, get into fights, and roam the neighborhood.
• Communities spend a small fortune to control and eliminate unwanted animals. Animal control has to pick up animals that are hurt or dead on the road. Shelters have the sad task of killing unwanted animals.

SPAYING AND NEUTERING…A SIMPLE OPERATION

Spaying a female dog or cat is the removal of their reproductive organs. A male dog or cat is neutered by removing both testicles. Your veterinarian can explain and discuss the best age to sterilize your pet.

BE A RESPONSIBLE PET OWNER

Do your part in not adding to the pet overpopulation. Spay and neuter your dog or cat and keep them healthy and happy.

by Dr. Stefanie Schwartz, veterinary behavior consultant, www.dr-cookie.com

Tranquilizers or sedatives intended to ease your pet’s fear during transport were once commonly dispensed. Recently, veterinarians have discovered that most pets actually travel better without sedation. The American Veterinary Medical Association has recently released a statement cautioning against the routine use of sedatives in transported pets. Sedatives can have side effects that modify your pet’s ability to adjust to the physical demands of travel. They may even worsen undiagnosed medical disorders that are further aggravated by the stress of travel.

Most drugs used for this purpose are short acting, with a peak effect lasting only several hours. For longer trips, it may not be worthwhile to sedate your pet, though it may help it through the first part of the trip. Drugs should probably be reserved for pets that suffer from extreme fear or anxiety during travel and should be used only at your veterinarian’s recommendation.

The risk of tranquilizing your pet must be weighed against the benefits. Some pets become more anxious when a tranquilizer begins to take effect. An unusual reaction to tranquilizers can make a pet agitated and excitable. It may help to do a ‘test run’ by giving a dose of the medication a few days before travel so you can observe its effects on your pet. If your pet’s only problem during travel is nausea or vomiting, medication to combat motion sickness may be all that is required.

Take frequent short trips with your cat. Place your cat in a carrier with a soft blanket so it can feel more secure. Cats are more confident and comforted in a confined area. A carrier will also help to prevent injury should they decide to race around the inside of your vehicle and will also prevent you from being unnecessarily distracted. Both you and your cat will have a safe trip!

© Dr. Stefanie Schwartz, 1998

by Dr. Stefanie Schwartz, veterinary behavior consultant, www.dr-cookie.com

A child should be taught to interact appropriately with pets from the moment they begin to move around on their own. Children investigate everything around them, including your pet, pet toys, its food and water bowl and the cat litter box. Young children have no conception of the pain they can inflict by biting, stepping or jumping on, kicking, squeezing, hitting, pinching, twisting or pulling various parts of your pet’s body. Children may delight in waking a sleeping pet by screaming in its ear or persistently chasing it, giving it no peace.

With daily adult supervision, children must be taught how to treat pets. They must learn that pets are not toys and are living beings that feel pain. It is not enough to tell them what not to do. Children must be shown which parts of a pet’s body can be touched and how to gently pet them. Teach them not to disturb an animal while it is resting or sleeping, eating a meal, or playing with or chewing on a favorite toy. Teach your children not to pursue a pet that runs away from them nor to restrain a pet that is trying to break free. A child must understand its own physical strength and the consequences of its behavior. In some cases, role playing is helpful. A child can pretend to be a dog or cat while an adult mimics the child.

If your child is uncooperative, it may be best to keep pet and child separated until the child demonstrates more self-control. It may be necessary, and indeed humane, to place your pet in another home. Even the most reliable and tolerant animal has a breaking point. Children and pets are not necessarily a good mix, and you may be better off to wait until your children are old enough to demonstrate consistent responsible behavior before introducing pets to your home. A child that displays extreme and repeated cruelty toward animals is likely in need of professional counseling. Pet ownership is a privilege not automatically deserved by everyone.

© Dr. Stefanie schwartz,1998

by Dr. Nell Barrett Salter

Feline Leukemia Virus positive. These are some of the most frightening words that a cat breeder or owner will ever hear. In this article I will try to help you to understand what this means, and what steps to take if this should happen to you.

First of all, there are two commonly used types of FeLV tests. One is the in-office ELISA, and the other is the laboratory run IFA test. Both types test for the FeLV protein p27. However, they detect the protein in different forms and detect infection at different stages. 1 If a cat or kitten is ELISA positive, but healthy, an IFA test should be performed. Here is where the confusion begins.

If the cat is IFA negative but ELISA positive there are two possibilities. One is a false positive ELISA test, and the other is a stage of the disease is present at which the IFA test doesn’t detect infection. Therefore, the suspect cat or kitten should be isolated and retested in at least 6 weeks. If, at that time the cat is IFA positive, you know that the cat if infected. The IFA is 99% accurate. An IFA positive cat can be shedding virus and infect other cats and kittens.

But the situation is even more complicated than that. Sixty to eighty percent of cats with a healthy immune system who are exposed to the FeLV virus develop antibodies that prevent progression of the infection. However, a percentage of infected cats will progress to a bone marrow infection and go no further, thereby harboring the virus in the bone marrow. These cats can test negative on both tests, or positive on the ELISA and negative on the IFA. For breeders, this dilemma is significant. If a cat is harboring virus in the bone marrow, it can appear healthy and normal. But a stress, such as pregnancy, can cause a reappearance of the virus, and infection and transmission of the virus. If you think about this, you will understand that even testing new cats and kittens entering your cattery will not completely safeguard you against FeLV. This is the reason that I recommend routine FeLV testing of all breeders at least every 6 months, and testing of all kittens before going to their new home or before being kept as replacement kitties. I personally recommend that a cat who has ever been positive (ELISA or IFA) should NOT be used in the cattery as a replacement. You may lose some prospective breeders this way, but “better safe than sorry”.

As for the other types of tests, saliva and tears, the following has been found. A high incidence of false positives has been reported with the saliva ELISA. Tears correlate better with blood than does saliva (approximately 80 % correlation). 1 Just keep in mind that these are ELISA tests and positive cats should be IFA tested.

I hope that this article has been useful in helping you understand the FeLV tests. I will cover the steps to take if you have a FeLV outbreak in a future article.

By: Dr. Nell Barrett Salter 7/21/97 Reference: 1 Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine, John R. August, Volume 3, pgs. 41-42.

by ACFA

One of the major problems with cat ownership these days seems to be in the area of allergies. I’m not sure if more people are allergic to cats than in the past or if fewer people are willing to tolerate even mild symptoms. I suspect it is a combination of the two. Whatever, I get lots of requests from people looking for a hypoallergenic cat. There is no such thing.

Most people who are allergic to cats are allergic to a protein in the cat’s saliva. The cat leaves the saliva on its hair when it grooms. The less saliva present on the coat, the less likely an allergic reaction will occur. Some cat breeds have coats which, due to length or texture, don’t hold as much saliva as others. Those are the breeds of cat which are less likely to trigger an allergic reaction and can therefore be tolerated by more people with allergies. Breeds with which many people with allergies seem to do well are: Cornish Rex, Devon Rex and Sphynx. The two Rex breeds have very fine, short hair. Sphynx have almost no hair.

There are several other breeds whose breeders claim them to be good with allergies. Siberian breeders, for example, say that their cats do not have the saliva protein which triggers allergies. I have seen no documentation on any breeds other than the three mentioned above which prove them to not cause allergies for any reason. More research needs to be done. A general and logical rule of thumb is that the less hair a cat has, the less saliva the coat will hold. Therefore, single coated breeds, like Burmese or Siamese, should be easier to tolerate than double coated breeds, like American Shorthair, or any of the long-haired breeds.

A minority of people with cat allergies are actually allergic to the dander on the skin. There are no breeds which don’t have dander. A partial solution for an allergy of this type, as well as for the saliva triggered allergy, is regular bathing of the cat. This will remove both the dander and the saliva and greatly reduce the allergens. Many allergic people are able to live quite well with a cat who gets frequent baths.

If allergy is a consideration in having a cat for your family, you must do a test before you get the cat. Don’t buy a cat of a breed you have heard is good with allergies only to find out after you get it home that the allergic person reacts. It is not fair to the cat to take it to a new home and send it back. Take the allergic person to a home or cattery where cats of that breed live. Spend some time with the cat sitting on laps and rubbing on hands and faces. If an allergic reaction is going to occur, let it happen there instead of after you have taken a cat home and become attached to each other. Most reputable breeders of those breeds known to be popular with allergy sufferers will not sell a cat to a home with allergy problems without a test first.

Don’t give up the thought of adopting a mixed breed cat just because of allergies. Use the shorter, finer coat guideline to select a cat. Then have the allergic person do the holding and touching test, away from all other cats if possible. Allergies are variable and somewhat unpredictable. You may just get lucky.

by Jim Mendenhall

Almost all of the material for this article comes from the past 50 years of ACFA Bulletins and Parades of Royalty. My thanks go to Lila Rippy for preserving the material and to Isabel Christie for passing it along to me.

PRICE CROSS (1955-57) (1959) (Texas) (Judge)

Mr. Cross bred cats for more than 40 years and bred, owned and exhibited all the recognized breeds of his time. The first ACFA Bulletin referred to him as “the dean of southwestern cat fanciers”. His first cat was a Tortoiseshell Persian, and in 1928 he acquired what is believed to be the first Siamese to come to Texas. He was Administrative Officer for the School Lunch Section, Food Distribution Division of the U.S. Department of Agriculture in the Southwest Area office serving seven states. Mr. Cross owned MAO Cattery. The October-November 1959 issue of the ACFA Bulletin reported “On October 3rd Mr. Cross was brutally beaten and stabbed to death by a nineteen-year-old youth whom he had befriended, and who then took his money and automobile and drove to Houston. He stated that he was separated from his wife, could not face life and decided to kill Mr. Cross so that he would be caught and sent to the electric chair.” Mr. Cross left his estate to the University of Texas, and his will provided for the dispersal of his cats to various breeders in the Southwest.

Sherman Arps (1958) (Washington)

Mr. Arps and his wife Maxine were members of the Abyssinian and Russian Blue breed sections and were instrumental in promoting ACFA in the Northwest. The January 1958 Bulletin reported “Mr. Arps was one of the early Charter Members of ACFA and has been an irrepressible booster for ACFA ever since”. He and his wife owned SHERMAX Cattery. Helen Mueller (1960-62) (Texas) (Judge) Mrs. Mueller, from Austin, Texas, was one of ACFA’s most popular judges. She owned FLAGSTAFF Cattery and bred primarily Persians. Don Yoder (1963 – resigned November 1963) (Missouri) (Judge) Mr. Yoder was described as “one of our youngest members, breeders and judges”. He was a breeder of Siamese, Persians and Burmese, and owned DAO Cattery (sometimes listed as DOCIA-DAO). He was the administrator of a hospital in Missouri and resigned from the presidency in November 1963 citing work pressures.

Dorothy N. Baker (1964 – resigned August 1965) (Ohio) (Judge)

Mrs. Baker (Dottie) was a former schoolteacher and was active as an antique collector. She was primarily a breeder of Tabby Persians and was very active in developing the North-Eastern Region during her time as Regional Director. During Mrs. Baker’s tenure as President a majority of the members of the Board of Directors voted to not re-appoint Mr. M. Porter Walley as Secretary-Treasurer of ACFA. Mr. Don Yoder led an attempt to have Judges decline to judge shows until Mr. Walley was removed from office. Many members requested a referendum on the matter, and Mr. Walley received a majority of the votes. The same Board members asked for a second vote, which Mr. Walley won by an even larger margin. A number of members had begun recall petitions for Mrs. Baker and the other members of the Board who had opposed Mr. Walley. Mrs. Baker stated, “No petition will be necessary to remove me from office for I will resign immediately (if the members voted in August to retain Mr. Walley)”. Mrs. Baker and her husband owned YOUR PETS’ Cattery.

Walter Carl Darnell (moved from VP to President September 1965–1967) (Texas) (Judge)

Mr. Darnell bred Abyssinians, Domestic Shorthairs (American Shorthairs), Manx, Siamese and Persians and owned DAR BER Cattery. He later concentrated solely on Havana Browns. He was charter member #91 and served as Secretary-Treasurer and General Manager of ACFA from 1957-59. He was the President of the Dallas Society for Animal Protection and on the Board of the Morris Animal Foundation.

James Kilborn (1968 – resigned in mid 1969) (Washington) (Judge)

The December 1968 Bulletin states “Jim is known as a progressive go-getter type of person as typified by his record in the Life Insurance business and ACFA members can look forward to a return to the active, advancing type of progress that was an integral part of our Association until very recently”. In his “platform” he had requested more frequently scheduled meetings of the Board of Directors (at the time they met once a year). Jim and his first wife Mary bred Abyssinians and Siamese and owned KILBORN Cattery, and both were licensed ACFA Judges. After Mr. Kilborn’s election, various allegations were made about the election results and process, and the case ended up before the Jurisprudence Committee and in court. An agreement was reached out of court whereby he and Betty Haralampus both agreed to resign (she was Vice President and one of the main sources of the allegations) and they agreed that neither would run again for office in the next election.

Phyllis Whitney (1970 – 74) (California) (Judge)

Mrs. Whitney had been a member since the inception of ACFA and judged for ACFA from the beginning, first as a guest judge and a year later as an ACFA Judge. She was also Southwest Regional Director for two terms. In her real life, she worked for the same company for over 25 years as a buyer and contract consultant. Mrs. Whitney began a President’s Podium column in each issue of the Bulletin. She and her husband owned BURQUE-LEE Cattery and were primarily breeders of Persians, adding American Shorthairs at a later date. 1974 was a year of turmoil for ACFA with protests, petitions, protests against petitions and controversial decisions by the JPC.

Dr. David Apel D.V.M. (1975 – 76) (Illinois & British Columbia) (Judge)

Dr. Apel was associated with ACFA beginning in 1957 and served several terms as the North Central Regional Director before being elected President. He was employed by Quaker Oats Nutritional Farms, Kennel and Cattery as a staff veterinarian for two years before opening his own private practice. He was instrumental in setting up the ACFA Research Fund. He wrote in his first column as President that “I personally feel that lately we have been too quick to use the legal channels……What ever happened to the old idea of talking to each other….?”. During his term a lot of his time was used to respond to various and numerous complaints raised by Russell Middleton, one of the founders of ACFA, who was disturbed at the direction ACFA had taken, particularly the Board of Directors. In 1975 ACFA sent a check for $4,500 to the College of Veterinary Medicine at Washington State University to provide financial assistance for research being conducted on feline infectious peritonitis (FIP) – one of numerous donations sent over the years. In November 1976 the ACFA office and equipment were destroyed in a fire – luckily many records were stored in another location. David and his first wife Joan owned ARK Cattery and bred numerous breeds but worked primarily with Silver Persians. They had two Cat of the Year Awards – in 1968, Cashmere Dancer of Ark, a Chinchilla Persian Male, and in 1973, Ark’s Remember Me, a Shaded Silver Persian Male. In 1975 David and his second wife Lois moved to British Columbia where they concentrated on British Shorthairs.

Lila Rippy (1977 – 78) (Illinois) (Judge)

In announcing her candidacy for the position of President, Mrs. Rippy wrote that she had “for the past 21 years served the best Association in the Cat Fancy as a member, judge, judging school instructor, Jurisprudence Committee member and Chairman, Regional Director, and 5 years as Vice President”. During her years as Vice President Mrs. Rippy regularly wrote a column “The Veep Speaks” for the Bulletin. In 1969 she established the “ACFA Annual Picnic” which was held in July by Mrs. Rippy and her husband Ray at their farm – when Mrs. Rippy was elected President, the Rippys had been married 48 years! Mrs. Rippy owned VAN DYKE Cattery and bred primarily Persians in her early years and was later famous for Ruddy Abyssinians. She bred and owned the 1978 Cat of the Year, VAN DYKE’S ABI ABDEL, a Ruddy Abyssinian Male. During her second year in office Mrs. Rippy seems to have had a very divided Board with which to work. Cora Swan – who wrote as a member of ACFA and not as its Secretary-Treasurer – wrote the following about the 1978 election “In a very short while campaigning and elections will be over, and never in the history of ACFA has such vigorous and vicious campaigning taken place in our organization…” Luckily Mrs. Rippy was a “collector”, and it is thanks to her that I have much of the material upon which this article is based.

Georgia Morgan (1979 – resigned mid-year) (Texas) (Judge)

Mrs. Morgan owned VELVET, sometimes shown as VEL-VET, Cattery and was primarily a breeder of Ruddy Abyssinians, plus Persians and Siamese. She was licensed as an ACFA judge in 1973 and became South Central Regional Director in 1974 following the recall of SC RD Jerry Kahn. During 1978 Mrs. Morgan and Mr. Larry Paul had been at the center of various controversies on the Board of Directors. One of Mrs. Morgan’s primary goals was to remove Cora Swan as Secretary/Treasurer of ACFA and to move the ACFA Central Office. When Mr. Paul was recalled as Vice President and the members voted to retain Mrs. Swan, Mrs. Morgan resigned and began the formation of TICA. Jacob Ash, NW Regional Director was appointed by the Board to act as Interim Chairman for a few months since VP Larry Paul had been recalled from office. If Mrs. Rippy had won reelection, the future of the cat fancy, and ACFA in particular, might have taken a much different direction.

Maxine Potter (elected November 1979 – 84) (Kansas) (Judge)

Mrs. Potter served for eight years as NC Regional Director and began a further term in 1975 before resigning to return to her home state of Kansas. She became an ACFA licensed judge in 1968 and in 1975 was elected Vice President. During Mrs. Potter’s Presidency a building fund was established to build a new head office (these funds were later used to purchase and renovate an existing building – the building in use until recently); ACFA celebrated its Silver Anniversary (many clubs also celebrated their Silver Anniversary Shows); the Annual Meeting was moved from February to a “date to be established in the late summer or early fall”; the first hardbound POR was published (1982); the Judging Program was revised to be much as it is currently; and cut slips were eliminated. Mrs. Potter and her husband George owned WESTERN SLOPE Cattery and bred primarily Siamese and Burmese.

John Bodner (1985-86) (Manitoba) (Judge)

Mr. Bodner and his wife Laura owned LO-BOD Cattery and bred Siamese, Burmese, Manx and American Shorthairs. He worked for Eaton’s for over 40 years, and was host of “What’s New Pussycat”, the longest-running program on the Winnipeg Access TV Channel. John served three terms as Western Canada Regional Director and succeeded in reestablishing clubs in several Canadian Provinces. He was licensed as a judge in 1968. During his Presidency the Judging Program was further revised; Central Office expanded its computer system; the Household Pet section of the Show Rules was completely revised; ACFA developed a new partnership in Australia; the position of Second Vice President was added to the Board; and the first “ACFA Style” ring in a European show was held in Germany.

Betty Haralampus (1987-recalled in 1989) (Washington) (Judge)

Mrs. Haralampus was a charter member of ACFA, and her name first appeared on the list of Apprentice Judges in 1963, and in December 1964 was listed as an All-breed Judge. Mrs. Haralampus and her husband Alex owned HARA Cattery and bred Siamese and Domestic Shorthairs (ASH) and showed a number of other breeds. She had experience in business and management and for five years was the Executive Director of the Miss Oregon Pageant. She served ACFA in many capacities: Election Judge, Vice President, POR editor, Siamese Breed Chair, Chair of the Judges’ Guild (precursor of the JEC), Judging Co-Ordinator, Merit Awards Scorer, and she judged the first ACFA Show in Japan (1973). During her Presidency the Clerking Program was established; the Judges’ Executive Council replaced the Judges’ Guild; the Household Pet Judges’ Program was established; realignment of regions was studied and later implemented; and the ACFA Office was fully computerized. In the summer of 1989, a recall petition was filed alleging that as President she had allowed the Board of Directors to take illegal action against two ACFA Judges. The recall was successful by six votes, and Vice President Tom Herbst officially became President in December 1989.

Tom Herbst (December 1989-92) (Wisconsin) (Judge)

Mr. Herbst was licensed as a Judge in 1980, and was co-owner, with Dan Lalley, of TODA Cattery and raised primarily Abyssinians and American Shorthairs. They bred Alter of the Year in 1982 – TODA’S KHARIS, a Ruddy Abyssinian. He served ACFA as Abyssinian Breed Chair, American Shorthair Breed Chair, Northcentral Regional Director, and First Vice President. Tom worked in private business and for the City of Madison, Wisconsin. He was one of ACFA’s strongest supporters and wrote extensively for the ACFA Bulletin and Cat Chat, the newsletter of the Madison Cat Club. During his Presidency the Guest Judging Program was terminated; Specialty Judges were approved to present “Top 10” if at least 25 entries in a class; HHPs were approved to be judged as other classes (previously Specialty Judges presented an All-breed HHP final); members approved using at least 2 Specialty Judges for a one-day show and at least 4 for a two-day show; the Judging Program was revised to provide for review of Judges for relicensing at the Semi-Annual Meeting; and requirements for Specialty Judges were raised to 40 shows judged before applying for All-breed. In November of 1992, a Judge, whose license had been suspended at the 1992 Annual Meeting, brought a lawsuit against ACFA; this lawsuit would prove to have a major impact on ACFA’s history.

Darrell Newkirk (1993-94) (Illinois) (Judge)

Mr. Newkirk was licensed as a HHP Judge in 1987 and as a Specialty Judge in 1990. He and his wife Beth own PURRSYNIAN Cattery and breed Abyssinians and he served as ACFA Abyssinian Breed Chair. He was a Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist. Mr. Newkirk had the misfortune to take over as President immediately after the above-mentioned lawsuit was filed. By February 1993 the lawsuit had already cost ACFA nearly $8,500.00. This was a very trying time for ACFA and much of Mr. Newkirk’s Presidency was involved with the lawsuit and all that resulted from it. Several small associations broke away from ACFA and there were a number of resignations from the Board and other ACFA Committees. Throughout his time in office Mr. Newkirk tried to keep the members informed about the progress of the lawsuit and to keep the activities of ACFA on track. Show reports were printed in the Bulletin for the first time since the early days of ACFA. Many members and clubs supported ACFA financially during this period with donations.

Ron Summers (1995-96) (Indiana) (Judge)

Mr. Summers was licensed as a Judge in 1986 and is co-owner, with Ricky Burthay, of BURTHAY Cattery and they have raised Cornish Rex and American Shorthairs. They bred the 1987 Cat of the Year, BURTHAY’S CENTAURI, a Blue Cornish Rex Male. He served ACFA as Northeast Regional Director, Mid-Central Regional Director, President of Amerikat (ACFA’s ASH Breed Club), Cornish Rex Breed Chair, American Shorthair Breed Chair, and First Vice President. At the beginning of his term as President the lawsuit was finally settled, and the main impact on ACFA was the staggering load of legal fees. One of the main projects for Mr. Summers and the Presidents who followed him was to keep ACFA vital while working to pay off the debts.

Steve Lawson (1997-98) (Florida) (Judge)

Mr. Lawson was licensed as an ACFA Judge in 1989 and served as ACFA’s Second Vice President. He and his wife Carol own LAWMAINE Cattery and have bred primarily Maine Coon Cats. They are the owners of a Travel Agency and during Mr. Summers’ Presidency they organized the first ACFA Cruise, an annual tradition, which has raised thousands of dollars for ACFA. They bred the Kitten of the Year in 1994 – LAWMAINE THE BIG BOPPER, a Brown Tabby Maine Coon Cat Male.

Carol Barbee (1999-present) (Kentucky) (Judge)

Mrs. Barbee was licensed as an ACFA Judge in 1982; she and her husband Herb own KIMIKI Cattery and have bred Siamese and Cornish Rex. Before being elected President, she served ACFA as Cornish Rex Breed Chair, Midcentral Regional Director, and as a member of the Genetics Committee and the Judges Executive Council. During her Presidency the first ACFA Judges judged in China, the Color Codes underwent a massive update, and many of ACFA’s debts have been settled. She is currently serving as editor of the POR.

by ACFA Executive Director

On occasion, ACFA is requested to intervene in personal disputes between members, breeders and/or owners. Although we are saddened to hear and read of such disputes, in most cases there is little ACFA can do to alleviate the problems and issues unless they pertain to a direct violation of ACFA Bylaws or Show Rules.

ACFA has a Disciplinary Committee, comprised of a member from each Region and a Chair, which handles complaints a member may have with another member, the Board of Directors, a Regional Director, an ACFA Judge or an ACFA Club for misconduct or violation of the rules and regulations of ACFA.

ACFA Bylaws outline the procedures to be taken for filing a protest, processing the complaint, compiling the evidence, reaching a decision, and taking any necessary disciplinary action.

However, matters of a personal nature, such as complaints between breeders and owners, are private transactions, which should be referred to the appropriate intermediary or small claims court. Most disputes could be resolved by a proper contractual agreement between parties. Such contracts should contain Breeder and Owner responsibilities spelled out in simple, easy to read and understand language, and should be signed by both parties. Breeders and buyers who do not conduct their business in such a manner do so at their own peril. There is little to be done, even by the courts, without a valid contract.

In matters where the abuse and/or neglect of animals occurs, whether in an ACFA registered cattery or in a private home, the only recourse ACFA has is to refer the complainant to the proper authority, such as the local Humane Society. We do keep a file of complaints against breeders and owners, but until the complaints have been proven (through proper documentation and evidence – such as photos, signed affidavits, court decisions, etc.), ACFA cannot withhold services and rights.

Please remember that ACFA is a registration body (cats, litters, catteries, Judges, etc.), and not a policing agency, nor attorneys, nor veterinarians. We do not have the personnel to inspect catteries or homes, nor the expertise to evaluate contracts, nor the ability to determine whether a cat is ill. As such, we respectfully request that such questions and complaints be referred to the proper authority.