by Lee Polk

And a mighty fine question it is. I recently asked several licensed clerks in my area why they started clerking. Most answered the question with a question, “why not?” A few responded, “for the money” and one declared that he “just wanted something else to do during the show, as he and his wife were only showing one cat, and since she did all the grooming, she didn’t think it was fair for him to carry the cat to the ring after all her hard work!”

People clerk for many reasons. Recently, the Board determined that you must be a licensed clerk to enter the judging program. As a result of that, we have seen quite an increase in clerks entering the program. Applications are coming in every week!

It’s true, licensed clerks do receive a sum equal to one entry, for clerking. (But if you’ve ever clerked, you know it’s not enough money to entice you to come back and clerk the next show.)

It’s quite easy to enter the clerking program – simply make application. Applications are readily available from the Clerking Program Administrator. You do have to be a member and pay a small fee of $10.00.

If you’ve never clerked before, I suggest that you contact a show official and ask if you may sit in the ring with a clerk, to learn the procedures first hand. When you send in the application and fee, I’ll send you the Clerking Manual and an evaluation form, which you may copy. Have the ring clerk complete the form and send it to me.

Then when you’re assistant clerking, or clerking on your own, have the judge complete the evaluation forms and send them in. When you have sufficient successful evaluations on file, you’ll receive the Clerking Test. It’s open book, and you are given 30 days in which to complete it and return it. A passing grade of 90% is required, and voila! You’re licensed!

Everything you need to know and do is contained in the Clerking Manual!

So go ahead! Give it a try! Call or write! I’ll be more than happy to send you the application.

If there are no Clerking Schools in your area, ask your local club to enlist any All-breed Judge to teach a clerking school. We use Clerking Schools in my area as a fundraiser for the clubs! The fee charged covers the Clerking manuals, any refreshments provided, with the balance going to the club! Check with your All-breed Judge/Clerking School Instructor to see what fee, if any, they might charge to do the school. Central office does not charge any fee for Clerking Schools!

If you’re one of the many folks out there, clerking up a storm but not “in” the program, not licensed, I can only wonder “why not?”

by ACFA

Read ACFA Show Rules

• Contact judges to officiate call and e-mails. Send official ACFA contract immediately. (Judges need to plan their travel)
• Include in the judge’s information an ACFA questionnaire with important information.
• If mailing include three copies and a self-addressed stamped envelope.
• When all contracts are retuned send copies to CO. (Judges have 30 days from post mark to return to the Club) Show Rules Article VIII Judges Sec. 7 d.
• Communicate with Judges on their travel plans.
  • Driving: 45 cents per mile or up to what an airline ticket would cost, whichever is less
  • Flying: Club can book the flight or Judges can. Cost needs to be discussed. No greater than the cheapest airfare.
• Booking Judges rooms according to their needs handicap, single, etc. If at all possible, book the ground floor for the Judges. Club needs to pay for night before and the night of the judging (total two nights). If Judges plan to stay the third night, it would be helpful to book the third night at that time for them.
• Send Critical Information to ALL Judges
  • the show flier
  • motel room conformation number
  • motel information like breakfast, restaurant etc.
  • If there’s no food in the motel, what transportation plans are available?
• Inform judge who will be picking them up at the airport. Name of driver, their cell phone number, the cars make and color & where they are to wait.
• It would be very nice for the Club to give the Judges a gift bag with snacks and bottled water for the room. Sometime this will be all the Judges have to eat. Providing a litter box for the Judges that are flying in would be helpful if traveling with cat.
• Club will provide transportation to and from show hall. Art. VII, Sec. 4 6

Some Thoughts

Club needs to remember that is their responsibility to attend to a Judges
needs from the time they leave their home until they are back in their home.

Things like this:

• Do not drop a judge off at a hotel without a vehicle and have NO food available within walking distance of the hotel.
• Do not expect the Judge to donate their fees back to the club.
• Do not leave the Judge stranded at the show hall with no ride to the hotel or the airport after they have finished the show. Don’t forget Judges staying over Sun-day night dinner plans.
• Remember that Judges may have special dietary needs. (Vegetarian)
• Research the hotel that you book for the Judges it’s important that they are clean and respectful and not a bad area of town.
• Ask the Judges if they have any special needs or requests or needs for food or drink as not all of them fill out the form that the clubs send them. Make sure if at all possible that each Judge has an experienced clerk. Most Judges work with new clerks IF they have been given a crash course in clerking by a good clerk. Club is responsible for all meals (three meals per day) Reimbursements based on normal priced meals at the motel restaurant. Show committee must file Judges Report to JEC chair. Send show final sheets to all Judges.

Judges

• A. Send signed contract back to club as soon as possible so club can print out fliers. Time frame (show rule) 30 days. Show Rule Art. VII, Sec. 7d.
• Let club know your travel plans. If flying send itinerary with flight number, arrival and departure time.
• Send contact information including cell phone numbers. Emergency contact numbers any special needs, dietary etc.
• Judges should carry insurance information.
• Judges should not be demanding or complaining to the clubs unless very substandard condition arises.
• Judges can send in official club reports.

by Joyce Irwin

As chairperson of the Judges’ Executive Council, the question I am most often asked is, “how can I get into the Judging program?” There are, as one might assume, prerequisites. Many members who aspire to become ACFA championship judges have already fulfilled some of them. An application must be made through the JEC chair, to the Board of Directors, and must be submitted at least 60 days prior to either the semi-annual (February) or the annual (August) meetings. Only applications showing all requirements completed can be considered.

Applicant requirements are as follows:

1. Be a member of ACFA in good standing for at least the last three consecutive years
2. Have an ACFA registered cattery
3. Have exhibited in championship classes, or purebred kittens, in a minimum of 12 ACFA shows within the past 36 months. (A show, for the purpose of this rule, shall be a weekend, whether it is a one-day or a back-to-back show.)
4. Hold a current ACFA clerking license
5. Have served as master clerk for at least two ACFA shows
6. Have PERSONALLY exhibited five or more cats to Grand Championship status in ACFA shows, at least three of which must have been the applicant’s own breeding
7. Have been breeding and exhibiting for a minimum of five years at the time of application
8. Have attended an ACFA judging school or approved breeders’ seminar within the 12 months prior to application

Once an applicant is approved by the Board in convened session, his/her training begins under the direction of the training coordinator, always a member of the Judges’ Executive Council.

by Libbie Kerr

At the August 1997 meeting of the ACFA Board of Directors, the Bengals were reinstated to New Breed and Color (NBC) status, effective immediately.

The Bengal has a “spotted history” with ACFA beginning and ending in 1991. A second-generation foundation cat was being shown in 1991, retrospect allows us to see the error. This situation led to further clarification of what a “Bengal” is versus, what is referred to as, a “Foundation Cat”. This understanding is basic in understanding the future of the Bengal.

The first three generations from the non-domestic breeding are referred to as Foundation Cats, in this case, Foundation Cats for the Bengal. It is not until the fourth generation that the term Bengal applies to the offspring. The reason this needs to be clear and understood is that they are two different animals in behavior and, often, in appearance. The Asian leopard cat (ALC) is a very shy wild cat (weighing 5-12 pounds) that hybridizes with domestic cats. Hybridization has occurred in the wild for years, but in the development of the Bengal began as a scientific study of immunity to FeLV in the early 1970s. (This research has human applications now and is being studied by the National Cancer Institute.) In 1984, Jean Mill, began registering the Bengal with the object of creating a domestic cat, many generations removed from the shy ancestor, that looks like small forest dwelling cats, but does not behave like them. In 1997, there are over 15,500 Bengals Registered with TICA and over 300 champions… obviously, this is a concept that has “caught on”!

Let me reiterate the main points:

1. A Bengal is at least four generations removed from the original ALC cross. In the case of ACFA, we have to be 5 generations removed, and only one ALC can be seen in the 5th generation.
2. Foundation Cats are one, two, and three generations removed from the ALC cross.
3. The intention of breeding Bengals is to create a cat that have a phenotype of the ALC, not the temperament. Temperament is even written into our standard.
4. The Bengal breeders are not to advertise for sale or bring to the ACFA any cats that are not Bengals. That refers specifically to Foundation Cats.

The challenge of breeding Bengals is how to do this. By the selective breeding of friendly, people loving cats that carry the characteristics readily identified as “wild looking”…. such as resetting (two toned spots, that can be shaped like doughnuts, paw prints, arrowheads) strong contrast (minimal change in the agouti banding colors) random patterning (not vertically aligned) and our wish list of: small ears, low on the head, white tummies…. There are some “new” (TICA, 1995) colors and patterns you will be seeing. When I learn the ACFA language of terms I will translate them to you. Meanwhile think: brown tones with contrasting spots, cream tones with contrasting spots and both colors with swirled “marble” patterns.

The Bengal is a developing breed that is incredibly popular. The result, in my opinion, is not always a good one. There are breeders creating cats that look nothing like what we are trying to produce. The market is flooded with these “pet” Bengals that sell for fancy prices and fancy promises. Education of the public is the key, and the American Cat Fanciers Association will be another forum.

This education began at the Kentuckiana Show over the Labor Day Weekend. Martha Battenfeld took a male, adult Bengal to the show who purred his way into the show hall and throughout every ring. Martha enjoyed the show, got to be a TV star, and was thrilled with the welcome she received. She is eager to go again and is encouraging others to show. This will not be a problem… Bengals are here and will be a very present part of ACFA.

I have been working with Bengals for eight years and was attracted to them because of the temperament issue. It intrigued me that temperament could be affected by selection and the Bengal was the perfect cat for this study. It is my contention that careful selection allows the phenotype to remain true while creating little, loving pets. Why have a beautiful animal if it does not want to be around you?

Because of my background in education, teaching, writing and speaking, I have enjoyed presenting these ideas and working with them. I have had articles published and will be working more in the area of “Inheritance of Temperament” using Bengals as the example, but it applies to all breeds of cats, and any living form.

I am a past president of The International Bengal Cat Society, serve on many committees for TIBCS, Member of the Bengal Breed Committee for TICA, Chair of the Bengal Breed Committee for ACFA. I work with Ohio Wesleyan University and some with Ohio State Veterinary College concentrating on Feline Behavior (students from the colleges observe at my cattery), attend numerous seminars on feline behavior and read and study.

I am breeding 11 and 12 generations from the ALC and have clear coats, rosetted patterns and wonderful temperaments. I know for a fact that we can get the phenotype from the ALC and have wonderful temperament. The challenge is one that I enjoy — working generation by generation, loving the cat in hand while appreciating what it might just carry on to the next generation. These are wonderful, people interactive cats that are fun to live with and show. I look forward to meeting many of you at shows and hope that you will feel free to contact me at any time with concerns or questions.

I am pleased to have a “spot” in ACFA and look forward to Championship classes! Keep us on our behavior, and remember, it is not so much the wild blood in the cats you have to be concerned with…. it’s the wild blood in the owners!

by Else Carine Risberg

It is often said that “Tonks” are a breed of “acrobatic clowns with purr-fect purr-sonalities”.

Originally derived from Siamese and Burmese ancestry, the Tonkinese is a sterling example of the best qualities of both breeds. The Tonkinese cat has a muscular body and is described in at least one standard as being “surprisingly heavy for its size”. This is a breed of cat that has a combination of features making it an overall pleasing breed for almost anyone. Intelligent and curious, elegant and graceful it has a medium appearance in every aspect.

History

We know today that the Tonkinese cat probably existed naturally as a breed in its native Siam long before cat registries made it “official”. Since the breed is a hybrid of the Siamese and Burmese breeds, and they also originated in the same countries, the Tonkinese, although not called by this name likely walked the paths of its native country back as far as cats existed there. The Tonkinese was first seen as is in England in the 1800s and these cats were called a variety of names including Chocolate Siamese, or Golden Siamese.

However, “officially” the breed in North America came to be because of a cat called Wong Mau. Dr. Joseph Thompson brought Wong Mau, a small chestnut coloured cat to California, in the United States, in 1930. This cat Wong Mau was bred to a Siamese when there was apparently no other cat like her to be found in the country and eventually, she produced a mixture of Siamese like kittens coloured just like her. Then in mating a kitten of Wong Mau back to her, the result was a variety of three patterns and eye colour in the litter. The kittens with the distinct points and a very light body colour had blue eyes, the kittens with a dark brown body colour had yellowish to greenish eyes and the kittens most like their mother in body colour had a range of greenish to what could only be referred to as aqua.

The Tonkinese breed, (although originally bred in both the U.S. and Canada) was first accredited by CCA in southern Ontario, Canada and as such, is generally considered a Canadian breed. In the 1950s, a breeding program was begun in New York City by a pet storeowner. He started by breeding his own Siamese and Burmese cats together and came up with a hybrid he called the “Golden Siamese”. The resulting progeny became very popular with people in the 1950s and the early 1960s. However, it was two other people who finally produced the cats that became the modern Tonkinese ancestors. Jane Barletta of New York and Margaret Conroy of Ontario in Canada started their own breeding programs independent of one another. Because the kittens that were produced had coats the colour of minks the cats were called “natural minks”.

The breed was first recognized in Canada in the late 1960’s, achieving championship status in CCA in 1971. ACFA, along with other registries throughout North America, eventually recognized this engaging breed in championship as well. This past year South Africa has also recognized the Tonkinese in Championship and Great Britain will be accepting the breed in 2003 officially. Outcrossing the Tonkinese to both Siamese and Burmese is still acceptable in most registries in North America with the exception of one. The allowance of open stud books and out-crossing to the two founding breeds is important to continue to allow the breed to develop a great and diverse gene pool.

Characteristics and Temperament

Tonks are first and foremost “people cats”. That is to say, they are very friendly and affectionate and love to be with their people. They are shoulder riders, often climbing or leaping up on people, so as to be in the thick of things. They seldom use their claws when performing this feat however, since they are generally very gentle cats by nature. In this respect they are excellent pet and show cats, since new people or situations do not overly stress them out.

This is not to say that the Tonk is a lackadaisical cat, however. Indeed, they are very playful and, in a word, fun – fun to watch, fun to be around and fun to snuggle with. They can sometimes be quite mischievous, with little nips and bites, especially as kittens. (A word to the wise – keep your sock drawer locked!!)

Physically, Tonks come in a variety of types and colours. In ACFA and at least one other association, there are four colours accepted: Platinum, Champagne, Natural and Blue, and three coat patterns, pointed (most like Siamese), mink (the halfway variety) and solid (most like Burmese).

Tonkinese cats with a mink patterned coat are especially known for their aquamarine coloured eyes – this exotic colour is one that few other breeds share.

Tonkinese cats are of moderate size, weighing approximately 7 lbs. for females and 9 lbs. for males, as adults. Although, some breeders still use the original foundation breeds, (Siamese and Burmese) in their breeding program, most breeders breed a minimum of fifth generation Tonkinese to Tonkinese only, in order to obtain a more consistent look and temperament. In the show world a mink is said to be an example of the perfect Tonkinese. However, many points and solids are standard perfect. The colour of the cat has nothing to do with temperament and pointed or solid kittens do make excellent companions!

Health

The Tonkinese breed is relatively free of genetic diseases. Tonks generally live a long and healthy life as long as they are cared for, given health care as needed and fed properly. A well cared for Tonk may live to the ripe old age of 18 years or more. The breed is known for a laid-back attitude towards life and probably because of this relaxed nature they do not tend to be affected by very much. Due to their relatively athletic body, they do not tend to be affected with such things as hip displasia, myopathy or other such conditions. It is not impossible for a Tonk to be affected by disease but generally speaking it is the exception rather than the rule.

By Carol Barbee, ACFA All Breed Judge

On July 21, 1950, in a barn in Cornwall, England, a kitten was born which would be the foundation of a new breed of cat. The kitten’s mother and littermates were normal looking domestic shorthair cats. But this one kitten, later named Kallibunker, had a very short, soft, fine wavy coat. As he grew up it was apparent that his body appearance was also different from the other cats, longer and leaner with large ears. The owner of that barn in England was Mrs. Ennismore and she had once owned a breed of rabbit called the Castor Rex rabbit. She thought that this strange kitten’s coat was a lot like her rabbit’s coat and contacted a well-known geneticist for help. Together they did experimental breeding’s and discovered that the coat was the rexoid gene operating as a simple recessive. They named their new cat breed Rex. Several years later the group of Rex breeders received word that there was another curly coated cat living in neighboring Devonshire. Because the very small gene pool of Rex cats was already causing breeding problems this was a very exciting find. However, when the two were bred together only straight coated kittens were produced. Research proved that there were two separate genetic systems in operation and thus two distinct breeds. The two breeds were named Cornish Rex and Devon Rex. They differ in appearance in that the Cornish has remained a tall, lean cat with big ears on top of its head and a tuck up in front of its hips like a Greyhound dog; and the Devon is shorter in both head and body with large ears set more on the side of the head and no tuck up. The Cornish coat feels like velvet and the Devon coat feels like suede and is a bit more fragile. The personalities are very much alike.

A Rex is a very active, very intelligent, very affectionate cat. They think they are a member of your family and they want to help run things. Rex are not a good cat for people who want their pet to sit on a chair and stay out of the way. Rex race through the house and bounce off the walls. They will open a cabinet door and eat all of your cookies with no shame at all. And then they will jump on your lap and demand that you love them. They enjoy riding on shoulders. And, with their extreme intelligence, they can learn anything you want to teach them. They may not always choose to do it but they can learn it.

The Cornish Rex coat is what usually attracts people to them first. It consists only of soft down hairs (the “undercoat”). There are no hard long outer guard hairs like on a normal coat. The soft, warm feel is luxurious. The coat requires very little routine grooming. Just petting removes the few loose hairs. Rex do shed like any other animal. But the short, fine hair is hard to see. And you never get long hairs all over your clothes and furniture like with other breeds.

Many people who are allergic to cats can tolerate a Rex. This does not mean, however, that the breed is “hypoallergenic”. Some people also have a reaction to the Rex coat. The very short hair does not hold dust, dander and saliva as well as a normal coat does. Whether or not a reaction occurs probably depends a great deal on the type and severity of the allergy. Often a mild reaction can be prevented by having another person bathe the cat regularly. We recommend that a person with allergy problems spend some time visiting with and handling Cornish Rex before deciding to try to live with one.

Cornish Rex are a healthy breed of cat. They have no common genetic defects as occur in some other breeds. They look fragile but they are very strong and wiry. With good care, a healthy diet and routine vaccinations they can live to their late teens or early 20s.

Color is considered to be of secondary importance in this breed. They are accepted for registration in any color which exists in any other breed. Most breeders have a few favorite colors and work mostly with those. But if you look long enough you can find a Rex in any color that you want. The name “SiRex” used to refer to pointed Rex. This name is no longer used since it implied that the cat was a hybrid between Siamese and Rex, which it was not. The genes which produce pointed cats have been in the Rex gene pool as recessives since the early days of the breed.

Cornish Rex can eat the same high quality cat food as any other cat. Show cats may need a little extra fat in their diet to keep the coat in top shape. The major problem with feeding in this breed is that Cornish Rex are greedy, and they dearly love to eat. They will attack food as if they were starving when they ate only minutes before. And they never know when to stop. For that reason, the Rex diet must be controlled by the owner, or the cat will soon become very fat. And a fat Rex is not a pretty cat.

Because of the lack of guard hairs, a Rex coat gets wet very quickly. For that reason, as well as many others, this type of cat should never be an outdoor cat. They are very agile and can use their paws like hands. I have had Rex who could pick up marbles with their paws. Think long and hard before declawing a Rex. It changes the foot structure, and they can no longer use their “hands” as well. A Cornish Rex will learn scratching post behavior very quickly and declawing does not need to be an option.

The Cornish Rex is an excellent pet for those who enjoy an active cat who demands a great deal of love and attention and returns it in kind. They get along fine with well-behaved children, dogs and other cats. Most people find that once they have lived with a Cornish Rex they are never happy without one.

By Lonnie Alitz, ACFA All Breed Judge

In almost every publication that you read on the Siamese cat their roots start in the land of Siam, now Thailand. Are they myth and fanciful or are they truth? I tend to believe they are fact with a little myth and fanciful thrown in to spice things up. The legend tells us that; this beautiful cat was the Sacred Royal Temple cat of Siam. They protected the temples and were adorn by all. This is probably more fancy than fact. Long before we even knew this wonderful breed existed they were alive and well in Siam.

The early imports were to England and then later to the United States. They were admired for their striking color contrast. Many of our Longhair and Shorthair breeds of cats, owes their beginnings to the Siamese. This breed of cat has also kept many breeds alive over the years. Just to name a few, Burmese, Russian Blue, Birman, Himalayan, Ocicat, Havana Brown, Oriental Long and Shorthair and the Balinese. The Siamese Breed section allows for NO out crosses only Siamese to Siamese may be Registered.

I guess the best way for me to start this is to say that to me the Siamese are the Ballerinas of the cat fancy. Always standing on their tiptoes. They are very people oriented and they are highly intelligent. They don’t like to be left alone. They want to be in the heart of everything you do right down to sharing the bed, covers and pillows with you.

A fully mature Siamese, of approximately 2 years of age, has the grace, elegance, beauty and fluid movements that are like no other cat. No matter what way you look at a Siamese, it is a well-balanced pointed cat. There is a striking contrasting color pattern on a well-muscled elegant frame with Sapphire blue eyes that are approaching violet.

The idea Siamese is gentle, amenable to handling and gives the appearance of a well- balanced cat both physically and temperamentally. All parts of the Siamese are balanced and “fit together”, without emphasizing any one particular quality. The Siamese is Medium in size, a long, svelte (cylindrical) body, with a combination of fine bones and firm, solid muscles giving a surprising sensation of solid weight without excess bulk.

The head, ears and profile are very sticking for this breed of cat. The head should be long and tapering to a fine muzzle. The wedge, when viewed from the top or the front, lines along the muzzle to the outer base of the ears starts at the nose and flairs out in straight lines along the muzzle to the outer base of the ears forming a triangle. There shouldn’t be a brake in the jaw at the whiskers. You can see this by smoothing the whiskers back and checking the underlying bone structure. The skull is to be flat, and the profile is to be straight from the tip of the nose to the center of the forehead, area between ear base and eye opening, without any dip or rise. The chin is a straight line from the tip of the nose to a strong firm chin and on the same vertical plane. Allowance for growth areas in kittens should be made.

The ears are large, pointed wide at the base and continuing the line, as much on the top as on the side of the head, to complete the triangle. The best way to view the ear set is from behind the head. The size is best viewed from the front. They are tilted slightly forward as if the cat was listening. They should not be set high on the head like donkey ears and not bat winged, straight out from the base or side of the head. Kitten’s ears should be larger and taller, like they were about to fly, and then the wedge is long.

The Siamese has a very mysterious look about them and this is from the almond, Oriental eye aperture that is slanted toward the nose and projects a line that appears to go from the upper eye corner through middle of the ear base. When the eye aperture has the very oriental slant it sometimes gives the impression the eyes are crossed when they are not. Look at the pupils straight on and when they will be straight up and down.

The neck is long and slender and carried to display the length, not telescoped between the shoulders.

Legs are long and proportionately slim, hind legs are longer than the front, but in proportion to carry the body length and weight gracefully. Feet are proportionately small and oval in shape. The tail should be narrow at the base, long, tapering and whippy, giving the effect of slenderness and length. When the Siamese is standing on their hind legs the tail would reach the table. There tail shall not have a visible kink or visible abnormality of any joint. The size of the tail should be in balance with the size of the cat.

The standards are written for the female; however, allowances will be made for males who are proportionately larger than the female. This includes jowls in the male stud cat.

The coat of the Siamese is short and close lying as if you had just painted it on. Body color should be even with slightly darker shadings across the shoulders, back and top of the hips. Temperatures can and do affect the color of the coat. Too much sunlight, called sunbathing, will make the coat dark. Cold temperatures will also darken the coat.

The point color comprises of the mask, ears, nose leather, legs, feet, paw pad color and tail and should be clearly defined in darker shades, but merge gently into the body on the legs, except Red, Cream, Red Lynx and Cream Lynx Points. The mask covers the entire face and is connected to the ears by tracings. Allowances should be made for color development in kittens and young adults with the dilute and red genes

Excepted colors for ACFA Siamese are:

• Solid Point
• Lynx Point
• Tortie Point
• Tortie Lynx Point
• Lilac Point
• Lilac Lynx Point
• Lilac Tortie Point
• Lilac Tortie Lynx Point
• Blue Point
• Blue Lynx Point
• Blue Tortie Point
• Blue Tortie Lynx Point
• Chocolate Point
• Chocolate Lynx Point
• Chocolate Tortie Point
• Chocolate Tortie Lynx Point
• Seal Point
• Seal Lynx Point
• Seal Tortie Point
• Seal Tortie Lynx Point
• Red Point
• Red Lynx Point
• Cream Point
• Cream Lynx Point

By Dolores Kennedy, ACFA All Breed Judge, Delian Cattery

HISTORY OF THE BURMESE

The first Burmese was brought ashore from a ship docked in New Orleans, or so most of the stories go, and she was given to Dr. Joseph G. Thompson, who lived in San Francisco. He was a retired ship’s doctor of the US Navy and a very unusual character with a deep interest in the East. Dr. Thompson referred to her as a Burmese, because she was supposed t have joined the ship’s company in Burma. He named her Wong Mau, and he considered her a new variety of Malay-type cat. We know now she was without doubt a hybrid – a Burmese/Siamese mix.

Dr. Thompson enlisted the help of two prominent breeders, Virginia Cobb (Newton cattery) and Billie Gerst (Gerstdale cattery) and Dr. Clyde E. Keeler, a prominent geneticist. The four of them developed and established an experimental breeding program. Since Siamese were considered the closest in appearance, they were used in the breeding program. After two generations, this program resulted in kittens with three distinct colorations: some looked just like Siamese, some looked like Wong Mau (with medium brown body color and darker points and some a solid dark-chocolate brown color. The later were considered the most attractive and the breeding program was aimed at isolating the genetic makeup of the phenotype. Discovering that these dark brown cats could indeed breed true, consistently producing dark brown cats, while the walnut brown variety, such as Wong Mau herself, continued to produce kittens in the three variations of coloration, the theory that Wong Mau was the first Tonkinese was proved. The results of the original experimental breeding program was published in the April 1943 Journal of Heredity, “Genetics of the Burmese Cat,” by the four program participants cited above. Unfortunately, Dr. Thompson did not live to see this paper published. He died of a heart attack while the paper was in publication.

This breeding program established the American Burmese. A proposal was made to CFA (Cat Fanciers Association) for acceptance as a new breed in 1934, and Burmese were approved for studbook registration in 1936. Once Burmese began to be exhibited, they became very popular with a great demand for kittens. Breeders wanting to increase the very limited breeding used Siamese stock, thus producing lots of hybrids. Since we now speculate that Siamese, recognized then only in seal points, may have been carrying the other colors, chocolate, blue and lilac, it would appear reasonable that the Burmese colors, champagne, blue and platinum (which are accepted in championship classes today) came from the Siamese out crosses. CFA registration was suspended in 1947 when that registering body would no longer allow this, after all either the Burmese were a breed of their own or they weren’t. Serious breeders then concentrated on breeding the type of cat that makes this breed unique and were successful in being reinstated by CFA for registration in 1953. At that time the Siamese were no longer allowed as outcrosses. Burmese in the sable color only were then returned to championship competition in 1957.

A standard was formulated to express the ideal of the original vision and to emphasize the difference between the Burmese and the Siamese. CFA adopted the standard in 1959 and it has changed very little since then. Because of ideological differences, with CFA, some members broke away and established ACFA (American Cat Fanciers Association) a new democratic Association in 1955. In 1961, ACFA registered 135 Burmese, One of which was Mizpah’s Ferdnand of Briarwood, owned by John E Baker.

The 1960’s produced many outstanding Burmese, which are the foundation of the cats today. Most of the Burmese of today can claim these ‘stars’ of the past in their pedigrees. Mizpah’s Ferdnand of Briarwood was one of those illustrious cats. Ferdnand made commercials for the cat litter Evergreen perched on his owner’s shoulders. Many of us can remember seeing Ferdnand traveling around show halls, draped around John’s shoulders. Other famous names were Fongin Chop Soy, Hill House Daniella of Shawnee and Shawnee Casey Jones of Phi Line. Burma Road’s Detour of Senshu also was part of that group of outstanding cats.

Ferdnand continued his career to become ACFA’s Royal InterAmerican Best Cat. He became the first shorthair to win that position, but not the last Burmese to gain that title. In 1985, Sin Jam’s Shogun Darkover, bred and owned by Dee Tomal, achieved ACFA’s Cat of the year and brought the sable Burmese back to the limelight.

In 1997, once again ACFA’s Cat of the Year was another sable male Burmese, Bastian’s Jack Daniels, bred by Dorothy Nelson and owned by Maureen Krzeszewski-D-J Nelson.

There are significant differences between the Burmese shown today and the Siamese and Tonkinese. These three breeds are separate and are not allowed to interbreed. Each have their separate standards and are very different in size and type. The Tonkinese is a combination of the two breeds with its own requirements that are very different from those of the Siamese and Burmese. It is neither as long as the Siamese nor as compact as the Burmese. The confirmation of their head is an example of the combination of the Siamese and the Burmese, it not round like the Burmese, but not a long wedge as is the Siamese head. It’s standard does not allow any outcross to Siamese or Burmese.

The Siamese, with their longer bodies, long elegant legs and wedge-shaped heads are completely different from the Burmese. With Siamese you think of long and lean with good firm muscles, whereas the Burmese are round and compact. The Burmese head is rounded without flat planes; the Siamese head consists of straight lines with flaring ears and blue eyes. The eyes of a Burmese are large, golden in color and round with considerable breath between them. In profile there should be a change of direction below the eyes into the well-developed muzzle with a firmly rounded chin reflecting a proper bite, this all contributes to the distinctive sweet look of the face. The Burmese is medium in size with an ample rounded chest; producing broad shoulders, the legs have substantial structure and rounded appearing feet, the body has a level back from shoulder to tail and hips as wide as the shoulders, the back legs are heavily muscled in the mature cat, the tail is straight of medium thickness and length with no vertebral defects. The coat is satin-like in texture short and very close lying, the recognized colors are Sable, Champagne, Blue and Platinum. Because of the many differences between the two breeds, Siamese and Burmese, it is no longer acceptable to outcross one to the other. The Burmese is a totally distinctive cat, which is comparable to no other breed.

The American style Burmese is different from the Burmese in Europe and some other parts of the world. The European standard is written to reflect a different type of cat; one that requires a longer body with a longer more wedge-shaped head. The solid heavily muscled bodies with the short satin like coat is the same, but many other colors are accepted.

By Carolyn M. Vella and John J. McGonagle
(First Appeared in CatsUSA 1995)

Responsible cat breeders breed cats for only two reasons: to make certain their breed does not become extinct, and to perfect the breed they are breeding. We do not breed just to have pet kittens to sell.

However, all responsible breeders will birth pet quality kittens in any given litter no matter how well planned a breeding program is. Unfortunately, breeders cannot keep every kitten they breed (no matter how much we would like to), so the pet quality kittens are sold to new homes.

A pet quality kitten is one that, in the opinion of the breeders, is not suitable for show competition against other purebred cats for one or more of several reasons. These reasons include matters such as color and color placement, relative size or perfection of physical features such as ears, tail, etc. and other subjective cosmetic features. All of these are measured against the standards of perfection as adopted by the U. S. cat associations.

Pet quality does not mean that the kitten is unhealthy. It only means that the kitten should become someone’s beloved pet rather than be bred and possibly pass on an undesirable cosmetic trait to other kittens it may produce.

Breeding purebred cats is a full-time, very intensive avocation. To understand what responsible breeders expect from a new owner, it is probably useful for the potential new owner to understand a little about breeding pedigreed cats.

Breeding requires much study. It also requires time and dedication. Among those qualities that are required to be a responsible breeder are

• an ability to continue nursing a sick cat or sit with a mommy who is in labor when you have had very little sleep
• an understanding veterinarian who enjoys working with breeders and who is available to you 24 hours a day
• a strong back for the physical labor required to keep the cattery sanitary, clean-smelling and spotless

And to be blunt, it also requires quite a bit of disposable income – the income in a cattery very rarely matches the expenses incurred. As we noted, responsible breeders do not breed to produce pet kittens to make money. In fact, we estimate that it costs from $150 to $250 (depending on what part of the country you live in) to raise a kitten from birth to four months old. That cost includes all of its food, its kitten and rabies shots, litter, disposable nursery supplies, special food for the pregnant and nursing mommy, etc. It does not include other costs, such as stud fees, pre-natal veterinarian visits, the occasional C- section, supplies you have to keep on hand in case of emergency, medical problems, etc. So, breeders selling a pet kitten for $300-$400 are
not “making a lot of money”.

We hope that the potential new owners understand these costs when we quote our price for a pet quality kitten. We especially hope that you understand why we may seem to react if you ask us why someone else is selling pet quality kittens (at a show, through the local papers, by an ad on a community bulletin board or through other channels) for $100, or $50, or even “free”. You should ask yourself, where did that breeder save the difference.

Above all, the most difficult thing in running a cattery is having to part with the precious kittens we have helped to create. For this reason, a responsible cat breeder expects the new owners of a kitten to meet certain standards. While they may seem high to you, they are the minimum for us.

Essentially, we want to know you, so that we know you will take care of the kitten and, perhaps, even become a friend of ours. It is important for breeders to feel that you will love and care for your new kitten as much as we would. To this end, we may question you about many things which help us establish that you are, in fact, the person who should be owning one of the wonderful babies we have bred.

Usually, we first want to find out whether or not you own a cat now or if you ever did. What we are really trying to find out is whether or not you are aware of the responsibilities involved in being a cat owner. Notice that we said “you”. One of the few categorical statements that can be made about how breeders operate is that no responsible breeder will sell a kitten to you for someone else.

If you do own a cat, we will want to know specifically how you take care of it. For example, is your cat spayed/neutered? If not, why not? Your new kitten will have to be, you know.

Do you ever let your cat out of doors? There are very few breeders who will sell to a household that lets the cat run outside – even just a little bit. In addition to having the kitten be bred before it is spayed or neutered, it can run away. But most of all, we will often remind you that the major cause of death for cats is the automobile (getting hit by a car or eating anti-freeze).

We may even ask what you feed your cat. Some breeders may ask you for a letter of recommendation from your veterinarian. And some will ask for your vet’s name and then contact the vet.

None of these questions mean to imply that you are an irresponsible cat owner. We ask them (and listen carefully to your answers) to reassure us that you know what it means to take care of a cat. To put it another way, responsible breeders will try to make certain that you understand that you will be taking care of your kitten for the rest of its life.

Many breeders may well specify certain aspects of what we consider to be proper cat care in their kitten sale contract. For example, our cattery’s contract has a “Statement of Responsibilities” that the new kitten buyer agrees to follow when he or she signs the contract. Among the responsibilities of cat ownership that we require are: the kitten will be provided with adequate food, water, and access to a hazard-free area for play and will not be caged except for health or similar reasons; the kitten will be provided with regular Veterinary care and will have all inoculations kept in effect; the kitten will be kept well groomed, clean and free of fleas and other parasites; the new owner will become familiar with basic animal care, including an understanding of the critical warning signs of illness and disease; and the new owner will make provision for the care of the kitten in case the owner should die or otherwise become unable to care for the kitten.

It is not unusual to find a clause like this in a kitten sales contract. In fact, a breeder friend of ours used this type of clause for years before we adapted it for our own contract.

If you have had a cat who recently died, we will ask you the cause of its death. We do not mean to intrude on your sorrow. We only want to know so that we feel our kitten is going into a household where any disease has been eliminated by the time your new kitten arrives. If your cat has died of a contagious disease such as Feline Leukemia, a breeder will know how to help you to sanitize your house and how long you should wait before you introduce any new kitten into the environment.

If you ask if there is a kitten available now, please expect us to tell you that we do not release kittens until a certain age – usually 4 months. That is to make sure that they have had all of their shots and are ready to make the transition into a new home. While a younger kitten may seem very cute to you, it is also very vulnerable to many hazards in your home of which you are not aware. It is for that reason that many responsible breeders will not sell a kitten to be brought into a new home for Christmas. Christmas kittens face not only the usual physical and emotional adaptions that all kittens in a new home face. They also face an environment which may be hyperactive (and thus frightening), one where they can be ignored just when they need extra attention, and which can be ultra-hazardous to them (eating tinsel and ribbon can be fatal).

So, respect the breeders who tell you they will have a kitten in one month, but not today.

It is very important that you own a breed of cat that fits the way you live, or you will not have a successful relationship with your cat. Since purebred cats tend to have personality traits that are inherent in the breed, you may find that reading a good book which describes the different breeds may be helpful to you before you call breeders.

We will ask you if you are familiar with our breed. This is to make certain that our breed is compatible with the way you live and you will be happy with the breed itself. We breed Japanese Bobtails, an extremely active breed for all of its life. If a caller says they have an active cat in their home and are looking for another one, we may have someone whose home is right for a Japanese Bobtail.

But, if someone is looking for a cat who will sit on the sofa arm in the evening, the Japanese Bobtail is not the breed for them. For example, if we get a call from someone who wants a very placid cat, we will suggest they talk to breeders of breeds other than ours.

In asking about your lifestyle, we will ask whether or not you work outside of the home on a full-time basis. Any breed of cat, even the most placid breeds, will want to spend time with their owner when their owner comes home from a full day out of the house. This is understandable as the cat has been alone all day, just resting up so he can play with you all night long! If this is the situation, breeders may suggest you acquire two cats. This is so they can keep each other company and play with each other during the day. This can help the cats to spend plenty of “quality time” with you
once you are home without becoming too pesky.

We will also ask if there are children living in the house. This is to make certain that the children also are aware of how to care for a cat. It would be as horrible for the breeder as it would be for you to find out that a small child has let your cat out of the house and the cat became lost.

There are certain very specific things that breeders expect from owners. In most cases these items will be covered in a kitten sales contract. You shouldn’t be afraid of a breeders’ contract – all responsible breeders sell their kittens by contract. Our contracts reflect our own experience as well as that of other breeders.

The first point is a firm agreement that you will have the cat spayed or neutered. Purebred cats are only to be bred in a planned breeding program (one in which the breeder has planned their breedings for generations down the line for health and relationships which are genetically diverse). They should only be bred by those who have devoted themselves to the process of breeding and exhibiting purebred cats. Much expensive equipment is necessary and even more education in the areas of genetics, zoology, nutrition, veterinary medicine and feline pediatrics. Breeding one purebred cat to another purebred cat does not make you a breeder.

Another contract clause you may find is that the kitten is not being purchased to be resold, leased or transferred. Also, many contracts specify that the kitten will never be used as the subject in clinical, breeding or medical experiments. Be aware that these contract clauses are not meant to imply that you would harm the kitten in any way. If the breeder felt that you would do anything to harm the kitten, you would never have the right to buy it.

Other clauses may also appear in the contract which reflects the attitude and experiences of the individual breeder. For example, you may find a clause prohibiting the declawing of the kitten. You may be required to feed a certain kind of food, or withhold a certain type of vaccine. Naturally, you will be given a time span within which your new kitten must be seen by your own veterinarian. Remember that the breeders’ first thought is for the care and well being of the little kitten you have just acquired.

All breeders hope that those who will provide homes for our kittens understand that we take these contracts very seriously. Some of the contracts provide that breeders can take back the kittens if the contracts are violated. While we hope that this never occurs, these clauses are enforced.

Another thing we expect of a new owner is that you feel free to make us a resource. Before the kitten was yours, it was ours. And we know how it was raised, what it did, and how others of this breed behave. That is not to say that we are a substitute for your own veterinarian. To the contrary! A responsible breeder will be the first to tell you to call your vet if you have a medical problem.

But a responsible breeder can be a big help on questions of behavior (Why does my kitten do that?), feeding (It stopped eating a new food I got it. Why?), temperament (My new kitten is fine, but my older cat is not friendly with it. What do I do?), medications (My vet wants to use modified live vaccines. Is that a good idea?), and related ownership questions (What other breed gets along well with this one?)

We can help you if you think you have a problem with the kitten, but you don’t know.
Instead of waiting until something serious happens to go to the vet (or, the converse, going when you don’t need to), you should be able to call on the breeders and at least talk through your concern. Remember, more than once we have all taken a cat to the vet on the basis that something “wasn’t quite right”, and saved a life as a result.

Also, if you decide that you want to show the kitten, we can help. We can tell you if you should be showing the kitten as an alter, or as a household pet, and why. Maybe we can even bench with you at the next show.

What happens if the breeders you call do not have a kitten for you — now? Some of us keep waiting lists. But remember, only nature will determine when we have kittens, of what quality, and color. So, if we keep a list, please be patient. Some breeders who do not have a kitten available may refer you to another breeder who might have a kitten available now. But please understand that we cannot always be positive on what is in another cattery.

Above all, what a breeder expects from a kitten buyer is that you love the little life you now have. None of us breed cats without a true love for our breed and for all cats. Kittens are a joy to have around. Their antics will keep you amused for hours and they can make you smile all day long. But, as the kitten grows into a cat, it becomes a true companion. A breeders’ cats are also their best friends and this is how we want you to feel about “our” precious babies.

None of the kittens we have sold are ever out of our memory or our heart. We love to hear from you. We need those phone calls telling us about something cute or wonderful our kitten has done. We want to see those pictures as it grows into adulthood. This is what makes up for the endless hours of work that managing a breeding cattery requires.

Copyright 1994, 1997. Reprinted with permission.

No further reproduction or use authorized, “without the consent of Carolyn Vella and John McGonagle”. All rights reserved.

by John J. McGonagle
(First appeared in Cats, May 1992)

Well, now you’ve decided. You just fell in love with a cat. Its owner told you it was a pure-bred
(or was it registered), and now you want a “registered” cat (or was it a “show” cat) just like that
one — or maybe another breed? You may have already selected “your breed” — or maybe not. But,
once you do, that’s all – or is it?

Unfortunately, that’s just the beginning.

What Does “Registered Cat” Mean?

In its narrowest sense, a registered cat is a cat which has had its birth registered with one or
more of the associations which register cats. And that’s it. A registered cat is not the same as a
show cat, nor is registration a guarantee of the cat’s health. What it is a guarantee of the cat’s
lineage.

On the other hand, technically speaking, if a cat is not registered, it is not a “pure- bred”. That
is because you cannot be sure about the breed of its parents without registration. So, if a cat is
called a pure-bred, but is not registered, and it looks like a Burmese, for example, what you have
is a cat which appears to be a Burmese. You cannot be certain that it is one.

That mean when you see a “pure-bred” cat for sale at a pet store, don’t assume that it is a
registered cat. And, if you see a “registered” cat at a pet store, please don’t assume it is also a
“show” cat. As you will soon learn, a show cat is also something different.

If you go to a pet shop, and ask about registered cats, a reputable pet store owner may tell you
something like what I was told when I was preparing this piece. The owner said “A registered cat
means I can sell it for more.”

So, from your point of view, buying a registered Persian means you have bought a pure-bred Persian. It does not necessarily mean that the parents were show cats. It does mean, however, that the parents are also registered.

In turn, that means that, if you want a pure-bred cat, it is pretty tough to get one from a pet
store.

Why Not a Pet Store?

This article does not suggest that, if you want to own a “pure-bred” or “registered” or “show” cat,
you should go to a pet store. There are a few reasons for that:

• The various cat fancies officially and unofficially discourage, or even bar, their members from selling to pet stores. Given that attitude, you should wonder just who is supplying registered cats to the pet stores.
• Pet stores are almost always reselling someone else’s cats or kittens. They only know what they have been told by the former owner.
• At a pet store, you deal with the staff, and the staff’s focus is on sales. The staff usually is not knowledgeable about the breeds you are considering, and really are not equipped to answer your important questions.
• Most pet stores adhere to the law in terms of your rights to return a sick kitten or get a replacement for a kitten which is not as advertised, such as the wrong breed. But how many of us can really return the kitten if we hear, as I know some have, that the animal being returned will be “put down”. Now, that may have to happen if a kitten has a highly dangerous disease. But ask yourself if a pet store will try and make an adjustment if your kitten “doesn’t fit in”? Many breeders will.

Who can you call after the sale? If you bought from a pet store, and you have a question or
problem, you will be (rightly) told to call a veterinarian. But, buy from a reputable breeder, and
there is someone you can call on for help. In fact, if we don’t hear from you often enough about
our baby, you’ll find you get calls from us!

If you are buying a cat as a pet, reputable breeders will require that you neuter the cat. To the
best of my knowledge, there is no pet store chain which has a neuter policy in force which has a
high compliance rate. Breeders are more careful. To make sure the cat they sell is neutered, they
can hold back on the registration papers (so you cannot breed “just once” to make some “fast
money”), require refundable deposits to make it financially worthwhile for you to neuter the cat
quickly, and even assert a right to reclaim the cat if you fail to neuter it.

What Is a “Show Cat”?

The registered “show” cat is very different from a mere registered cat. A show cat is one which can
be shown in competition and which will probably win, or already has won, titles or awards in
competition.

A quick lesson in the language of breeders and exhibitors about the quality of cats is important
when you begin to talk about the quality of cats. The most common terms you will hear from breeders when you are looking to buy a kitten or cat are “show quality”, “top show”, “breeder”, and “pet”. Some breeders use other terms or combinations, such as “show/breeder” or “show alter”.

The key here is that, regardless of what anyone tells you, there is no “standard” definition of
“show quality”, or of any of the other terms often used by breeders to describe the quality of
registered cats. When you are looking at cats and kittens, ask what the breeder actually means by
the terms that breeder uses.

So, you can understand what these concepts can cover, let me give you the definitions our cattery
uses in its contracts:

• “Top Show” means the cat is expected to be able to grand, that is achieve a grand championship, in a specified cat federation in a reasonable number of shows
• “Show” means the cat is expected to be able to achieve a championship in a specified cat federation in a reasonable number of shows
• “Breeder” means the cat is not expected to be able to achieve a championship in a specified cat federation in a reasonable number of shows. However, the cat is of good health and quality, and provides some assets to a breeding program (such as color, lineage, etc.); and
• “Pet quality” means that, while the cat is a pure-bred, we believe that the cat is not suitable for show competition against other pure-bred cats for one or more of several reasons. These reasons include matters such as color and color placement, relative size or perfection of physical features such as ears, tail, etc., and other subjective, cosmetic features, measured against the standards of perfection as adopted by a specified cat federation. Pet quality does not mean that the kitten is unhealthy, but merely that we do not believe that it is suitable for showing as a championship cat.

Now having explained these terms, we also tell people that the quality of the kitten is based on
the cattery’s evaluation of the kitten. That is, this represents its opinion, not a guarantee. This
is because many factors, such as presentation, nutrition, personality, and the rest of the field
competing can affect a cat’s success in show competition.

Now, you could try and show a “pet quality” cat in a cat show. However, given the quality of the
cat, you are probably not wise to compete in the “championship” class – that is with the cats going
for titles. You will not get one.

Rather, if you want to show the cat, take it to the household pet class, and show it there. You can
get rosettes, and, in some federations, you can even earn titles and awards. The rules on how you
do this differ from federation to federation. In some, for example, you may have to re-register the
cat as a household pet.

If you are seriously interested in getting a pure-bred registered cat which is other than pet
quality, you should never expect to find one in your local pet shop. If the shop owner is honest,
he or she will tell you that the cats there are not show quality. But you’ll hear that only if you
ask. A shop owner will generally not volunteer that information. And that is not a surprise,
because it is not good business. Unfortunately, some pet shops exploit, either knowingly or
unknowingly, the confusion out there between “registered” and “show”.

What Are The “Qualities” of Pure-Bred Cats?

Any discussion about the personality (I resisted spelling it purrsonality – well, almost) of a cat
is difficult. Like every other breeder, I think my own breed, the Japanese Bobtail, is the
sweetest. For you, the best thing is to read up and then to see the cats.

For reading, I can suggest two good sources. First, read the breed profiles run every month in
Cats. They give you a common basis on which to compare the many varieties of pure-bred cats. If you cannot get access to back issues of Cats, or cannot wait for the next profile, read Gloria
Stephen’s The Legacy Of The Cat. It is, hopefully, in your library. The photos of the different
breeds are beautiful, and help capture the essence of many of the breeds. But, more importantly to
you, the book very fairly discusses the personalities of virtually every breed of cat you can
imagine.

As for “seeing”, go to a cat show. You can find out where they are by looking at the calendar in
the back of Cats. When you are at the show, look at the cats and kittens, and then talk with the
owners. But, before you try and handle a cat, always ask the owner. Never touch one without the
owner’s permission.

Tell the breeders and exhibitors how you live, and what you are seeking. Most will be very helpful
on how their breed fits your lifestyle. For example, do you have children – or not? Do you have
another cat – or dog? Are you looking for a lap cat – or a more lively breed? The answers can make
a difference.

In turn, you should feel free to ask your own questions. For example, how big will the cat get when it is fully grown? What types of food does it (and should it) eat? How much (and what kind) of grooming or other care does it need? How much does it need the companionship of another cat, another animal, or a person? Is there any difference in the disposition of the males and the females? (There often is, but, contrary to what you might expect, sometimes the males make better, sweeter companions.) Also, if possible, ask to talk with some people the breeders have sold kittens to about the breed and that breeder’s cats.

There are some real advantages in dealing directly with the breeders:

First, and foremost, you are getting the cat from the source. If you ever have a question, you can
ask the person who is responsible for breeding, raising, feeding, and caring for that kitten.
Second, you can see pictures of each parent, or even see the parents themselves. That means you can have an idea of what the kitten may look like when it is grown. Third, some breeders will allow you to visit the cattery, so you can see your kitten’s prior home. Now, if you cannot, don’t worry.
Some catteries are “closed”, that is no outsiders come in, so that the kittens are protected from
exposure to disease. Fourth, the breeders know their breed. And they know it well.

Take your time. You will have the cat for a long time, and we, as breeders, want that cat to go to
the best home possible.

How Old a Cat Do You Want?

It seems that everyone wants a kitten, and only a kitten. And it seems that people want to get the
kittens “as young as possible”. That is because we all see kittens as little balls of fur and fun.
But you will soon find that most breeders will not sell you a very young kitten. As a rule, most
breeders will not even release a kitten until it is 4 months old. Why is that?

There are several reasons for this:

We want to make sure that the kitten is healthy and has had all of its shots. We cannot usually
ship a kitten which under 3 months old by air. Taking care of a very young kitten is not always as
easy – or pleasant – as you might think. It requires a lot of time, experience, and dedication (and
love). If a kitten is too young, the trauma of moving – and there is trauma, can be a bit much.

The last point is an important one, and one which any buyer of a kitten should be aware of. Many
kittens, on being sent to a new home, may come down with diarrhea, a low-grade fever or cold
symptoms. That does not mean the kitten is sick. Actually, it is somewhat routine. It is usually
due to a combination of the stress and trauma of leaving the cattery, the travel, and the immediate
adaptation to a new environment, new food and new owners.

As breeders, we get calls on that all the time. To help everyone avoid worries about a new
kitten’s health, breeders may suggest (or even require) that the buyer has the kitten seen by a
licensed veterinarian soon after taking it home.

There are pure-bred cats available which are not kittens but are older. Don’t immediately reject
the idea of buying a cat, instead of a kitten. As a cat gets older, it does not get “worse”. Cats
are like people – they are all different.

Why will breeders be selling a cat, not a kitten? There are any number of reasons. One of the most common is that a breeder may be selling a “retired” cat, that is a male or female which has been shown and/or bred. Most commonly, this cat has been neutered, or will be sold only if you agree to neuter it.

Don’t reject this out of hand. These cats are often ones which can get used to a new environment
very quickly, and which can make excellent companions, particularly if you are not the kind of
person who can take the initial frenzy of kittens in your life. Also, just imagine the thrill of
telling your friends that your new cat has sired 5 champions, but not having to deliver any of
them!

Pet Insurance – The Pros and Cons

While discussed more often in publications like Cats, “pet insurance” is still not widely used. As
animal owners, we think that it is useful, if for no other reason than it protects us, from ever
having to worry that we might hold off on critical medical treatment for financial reasons.

Because of that, I do not analyze insurance in terms of its “payoff”. When one of my animals is
ill, I am happy that insurance is there. The best payoff would be never having to have to file a
claim — which means my beloved animals would never have been sick.

There are other benefits. If I have someone else taking care of an animal, he or she knows that, if
anything happens, they can take it to the vet, and the vet will care for it, because the vet knows
there is some insurance on the pet. Some vets even take direct pay from the insurance companies,
which means they bill the insurance company, and then you for anything not covered by the
insurance.

As with your medical insurance, pet insurance is not perfect, but it is much better than nothing.
It does not cover routine shots — but that is because you should be doing that anyway. It does not
cover pregnancy, because either (a) the cat should not be getting pregnant — it should have been
neutered, or (b) the pregnancy is a planned breeding, which is a business decision, not a health
emergency. I can’t say that I disagree.

You should consider this argument when you will be buying a kitten. As far as I know, no pet shop sells a kitten with insurance. However, you could buy insurance for that kitten from one of the
several companies as soon as you buy the kitten (for information on pet insurance, see the articles
mentioned in the sidebar).

A few breeders already have insurance on their kittens (and cats). Under some policies, they can
just transfer that to you so that the kitten is covered immediately. In other cases, you will have
to buy a new policy. Find out which before you buy the kitten. In either case, you have a little
additional assurance about your ability to care for your new kitten.

Our cattery has adopted a policy that requires that the insurance we put on a kitten must still be
in force if the kitten is returned to us for any reason. This is to protect us from any problems
that may accompany the returned kitten.

Your Rights as a Buyer – Contracts

More and more breeders insist that you sign a contract when you buy (or adopt) one of their cats.
They increasingly use contracts for many reasons:

• local law may require that the sale (or some aspects of the sale) be in writing
• a contract gives breeders a way to make sure you have all the information you need, shot records, etc., about your kitten in one place
• it allows breeders to help control the careful breeding of their breed, and, by neutering agreements, to prevent “accidental” breeding’s
• it explains your obligations as an owner
• it sets out your rights if there should be a problem with the sale

So don’t be surprised if a breeder presents you with a document ranging from 1/2 page to 7 pages in length before accepting your check.

State Laws

Regardless of whether you buy a cat from a pet store or a from a breeder, you have rights. That is
because have just made a purchase – you are a consumer.

In a few states, pet stores (and even some breeders) may have to give you a medical history on the
cat, as well as explain your right to return a sick kitten. These requirements vary from state to
state. (See the box for references to articles on this and other important subjects.)

Even if you don’t live in one of these states, make sure you understand everything involved in
buying that new kitten — before you buy.

Copyright 1992, 1997. Reprinted with permission.
No further reproduction or use authorized, “without the consent of Carolyn Vella and John McGonagle.” All rights reserved.