by Carolyn M. Vella and John J. McGonagle
First Appeared in CatsUSA 1994

Now that you have chosen your perfect breed, how do you find that perfect kitten who is meant to share your life?

You can always go to a pet shop that sells purebred kittens, but since professional cat breeders will not sell to pet stores, your best bet is to buy directly from a breeder. This assures you of knowing the person who bred the kitten, knowing about the parents of the kitten, having complete health information, and proper registration forms along with a true evaluation of the quality of the kitten in case you are interested in showing the kitten. Also, by buying from a breeder, you have someone you can call for advice or if you have questions.

One of the easiest ways to find a cat breeder is by checking the advertisements in Cat Fancy magazine. The breeders who advertise there are currently active in breeding their particular breed and usually have kittens that are available or will be available in a short time. Using the ads also enables you to choose a breeder who may be close to where you live so that you can pick up your kitten or, at least, minimize the distance the kitten will have to fly. If you contact a breeder who has no kittens for sale, be certain to ask for a referral to another breeder. Most breeders work with other breeders, and we tend to know who has kittens available. If the breeder you have called can’t give you a referral to another breeder, ask the breeder for the address of her breed society. Every breed of cat who is accepted for Championship status in the show ring has a breed society. This is a great source of names of breeders who specialize in the particular breed you are interested in. In addition, most breed societies have a written Code of Ethics which the breeders in the society must adhere to.

Professional breeders exhibit at cat shows in order to gain titles on the cats in their cattery, so cat shows are also a great place to meet breeders. In fact, some breeders even have kittens for sale at the show. To find a cat show that you can attend, check the cat show listings in Cat Fancy. The listing will give you the name of a contact, usually the Entry Clerk, who can give you information on the show hours for spectators.

You can contact a breeder either in person, by letter or by telephone. Most breeders will spend plenty of time with you and answer all your questions. Breeders generally have a package of materials they can send to you along with photographs of some of the cats in their cattery. Just remember that a breeder’s weekend may well be taken up with a cat show which may entail travel on Friday and Monday. If you want a breeder to have plenty of time to talk to you, the best time to call is during the week.

Even though you may want to get that special kitten as quickly as you can, you may find that you will have to wait. Some breeds of cat are still rare in this country with very few kittens born each year, so you may have to wait longer for a Japanese Bobtail, Devon Rex, or Korat than you would for a Persian, Himalayan, or Siamese. Also, responsible breeders rarely release a kitten to any home before the kitten is 4 months (16 weeks) old. This is for many reasons including the fact that it is not until that age that all of the inoculations your kitten needs will have been given. Also, if you kitten has to be shipped by air, most airlines will not ship a kitten younger than this. But the most important reason is that the process of adjusting to a new home, with new food, new water, a new place for the litter, and the like, is easier if you wait until the kitten is at least 4 months old.

When you first contact a breeder, you will find that you are being interviewed more than you are interviewing! You will be asked many questions about the way you live, your knowledge of cats in general and your understanding of the breed you are interested in specifically. You may be asked for references from your veterinarian, and you will most certainly be asked to sign a contract.

After the breeder interviews you, you must interview the breeder. You are entitled to know exactly how the kitten was raised because this information is very valuable to you. The most important thing you should find out is how your kitten was treated during its early life. Professional breeders follow the Veterinary literature and know that the ages between 2 to 7 weeks are critical in the future life and adjustment of a kitten. If a kitten is not handled during this period, it may not become fully socialized in the future. Be certain to ask the breeder about this. In addition, you will want to ask what kind of food the kitten is used to eating and what kind of litter is used in the cattery. This will enable you to make the adjustment from the cattery to your home an easy one for your kitten.

Of course, the best way to find out about the breeder and the cattery would be to visit and see both the cats and the breeder in the cattery environment. Most buyers consider that this is a great way to check on cleanliness and to watch the cats in action which gives you an indication of their personalities. However, a cattery visit is not always possible so don’t rule out a cattery because the breeder does not permit visitors at that time. You must remember that if you already own cats, you are bringing your cat’s germs into the cattery. If your cat has a cold, you may pass that cold onto the cattery cats. When a breeder has a pregnant Queen, or kittens who are too young to have been vaccinated, new germs being introduced into the cattery can cause a real health concern.

An alternative to a cattery visit would be to ask the breeder if their cattery is a “CFA Approved Cattery” or a “CFA Approved Cattery of Excellence”. This is a relatively new program available to professional breeders. In order to qualify, your cattery must be inspected by a veterinarian and pass a set of standards set up by the Cat Fanciers Association. These standards will not guarantee the health of any individual kitten, but they are an indication that the cattery meets the standards for cattery cleanliness and the proper care and treatment of cats living in a cattery.

In dealing with breeders, you should be aware of many terms that breeders use.

A “registered” kitten is a kitten which has had its birth accepted for registration with one or more of the associations which register cats. A registered kitten is not the same as a show kitten. Registration is not a guarantee of the kitten’s health. It is only a guarantee of the kitten’s breed and lineage. On the other hand, if a kitten is not registered, it is really not a “pure-bred”. That is because without registration papers, you cannot be sure about the breed of its parents. That means if you see a “pure-bred” kitten for sale at a pet store, don’t assume that it is registered. And, if you see a “registered” kitten at a pet store, please don’t assume it is also a “show” kitten. So, from your point of view, buying a registered Siamese kitten means you have bought a pure-bred Siamese. It does not necessarily mean that the parents were show cats. It does mean, however, that the parents are also registered.

A “show quality” kitten is different from a registered kitten. A show kitten is one which is registered, and which can be shown in competition. In addition, it will probably win titles or awards in competition.

In discussing the “quality” of a kitten you are interested in purchasing, you should also have
an understanding of the terms that breeders use. The most common terms you will hear from breeders when you are looking to buy a kitten are “show quality”, “top show”, and “pet”. The key here is that, regardless of what anyone tells you, there is no “standard” definition of “show quality”, or of any of the other terms often used by breeders to describe the quality of registered kittens. When you are looking at a breeder’s kittens, ask what that particular breeder actually means by the terms the breeder uses.

So you can understand what these concepts can cover, let us explain the definitions our cattery uses in its contracts:

• “Top Show” means that when a adult, the kitten is expected to be able to achieve a title of “Grand Champion”;
• “Show” means the same, but the title achieved would be that of “Champion”;
• “Pet Quality” means that, while the kitten is a pure-bred, the breeder believes that the kitten is not suitable for show competition against other pure-bred kittens for one or more reasons. These include matters such as color and color placement, relative size or perfection of physical features such as ears, tail, etc., and other subjective, cosmetic features, measured against the standards of perfection as adopted by a specified cat federation. Pet quality does not mean that the kitten is unhealthy, but merely that the breeder does not believe that it is suitable for showing as a championship kitten.

If you are interested in showing your kitten, even though the kitten is pet quality, there is still a place for you at most cat shows. If you want to show the kitten, take it to the Household Pet class and show it there. You can get rosettes, and, in some associations, you can even earn titles and awards. The rules on how you do this differ from association to association.

When looking at a kitten for purchase, check carefully for indications of good health. The coat should be glossy, not rough. The eyes should be bright, not weepy. The body weight should be in line with the breed – a Siamese kitten will look thinner than a Persian kitten. In general, the kitten should feel firm and not mushy.

Since cattery cats are socialized at an early age, the kitten should have an alert, friendly attitude and allow itself to be held. However, each kitten is individual, and some are more outgoing than others. Don’t neglect that sweet little kitten in the corner just because he is not as demonstrative as his littermate. Also, the attitude of kittens varies with their age. All kittens go through a stage where toys are much more fun than people. It seems that they start to develop their loving ways at about 3 1/2 months of age. If you see a kitten who is a little younger than that, check the kitten’s attitude by playing with it using a toy.

As a general rule, we find boy kittens to be sweeter than girls. In fact, our best “mommy” is an altered male! Despite what you may hear, boys are easy to care for. Make certain the boy is neutered as soon as your veterinarian feels is safe and ask your Vet to remove all testicular material. This will prevent any “spraying” in the future. If you choose a little girl, you will generally find the kitten to be a little smaller than the boy as well as a little more active. Again, have the kitten spayed as soon as possible. Studies have found that when a female is spayed before her first heat, her risk of developing breast cancer decreases dramatically.

Raising a kitten from the time it is born until the time it leaves the cattery at 4 months of age, assuming nothing ever goes wrong, costs approximately $150-$200. This includes the cost of the disposable equipment necessary for delivering the kittens, a contribution to the cost of the permanent cattery equipment necessary for breeding kittens (such as caging, heating units, etc.) the food we use for weaning the kittens, kitten food after they are completely weaned, litter, inoculations, the cost of registering the litter so that the kittens can be registered, and a routine “well kitten” veterinary exam. This does not include the cost of the acquisition of the Queen and the Sire, their housing, feeding and health care. When you figure in the cost of stud service (if you are going outside the cattery), and the shows required to get a title on the cats you are breeding, the costs can become enormous. So when someone asks me why a purebred kitten costs $400 and up, I’m always tempted to respond that I, too, am shocked that the cost is so little! If you are really interested in acquiring a Pet Quality purebred kitten, you should be prepared to spend anywhere from $250 to $1000 depending upon the rarity of the breed. If you are interested in a cat who is Show Quality or Top Show Quality, you must expect to spend much more. I am constantly amazed that people would not hesitate to spend this amount of money on a dog or a horse but are shocked to find that a kitten can cost this much.

When you do spend this much money for a kitten, you will be dealing with a professional breeder, one who is knowledgeable and continues to learn and study about Veterinary Science as well as about their breed. In dealing with a professional breeder, you can expect to receive at the time you take possession of your new kitten:

• a complete written shot record for the kitten
• a copy of the cat’s pedigree (probably not signed)
• a set of papers permitting the kitten to be registered in one or more associations.

A common practice of breeders is to withhold the registration papers until you provide proof of neutering which will be given to you by your veterinarian. When you get the registration papers, they will usually be “restricted”, that is they will be marked so that you cannot breed this kitten, or that you can register it only as a Household Pet. The breeder does this to make sure that you do not “accidently” breed the kitten and contribute to the population of non-pedigreed cats.

In addition, the breeder should give you a “health certificate”. This is document, approved by the state in which the vet practices, and signed by a veterinarian stating that the kitten has been examined and appeared to be in good health at that time. Some breeders do not do this, and, instead, state in writing that the kitten is “in good health”. Obviously, the veterinary health certificate is a better protection for you. If you are willing to proceed without that, make sure that you let the breeder know that the new kitten will be seen by a vet within 48-72 hours from the time it gets home. You will also want a detailed medical history of your kitten as well as a list of inoculations given. Most professional breeders give their own vaccinations but will give you a list of what was given and when it was administered. Take this record to your veterinarian when you take your new kitten for his first visit and have your Vet make it a part of your kitten’s medical records.

Depending on the cattery, you may get one or more of the following along with your kitten:

• a “kitten” kit. This is a set of educational materials, sample foods, and coupons provided to the breeder by cat food companies, to introduce new kitten owners to their products.
• a sales contract. This sets forth what you are required to do with the kitten and specifies what the breeder has promised you. The majority of breeders have had an Attorney write their contract for them. In some states, a contract may be required.
• a medical insurance policy. Some breeders provide pre-paid insurance, covering major medical problems It is designed to provide the new owner of the kitten with additional
• protection. These policies cost between $40-$50.
• a set of written instructions on how to get your new kitten used to its now home, with information on the kinds of food it was fed, litter used, etc.

Despite the fact that the purchase of a purebred kitten may sound like a long, complicated process, it really is not. You must always keep in mind that each and every kitten born in a cattery is very precious to a breeder. We arranged and witnessed the breeding, worried over the mommy, delivered the kittens (usually at 3:00 a.m.) and then watched over them each and every day. We socialized them, loved them, and are always reluctant to let them leave the cattery. The breeder must feel that this kitten belongs with you and that you will care for it and love it all the days of it’s life. A breeder may let a kitten leave the cattery, but the kitten will never leave the breeder’s heart.

Copyright 1993, 1997. Reprinted with permission.

No further reproduction or use authorized, “without the consent of Carolyn Vella and John McGonagle.” All rights reserved.

by John J. McGonagle and Carolyn M. Vella
First Appeared in Cats USA 1996

A reputable breeder of purebred cats devotes their time to the protection, promotion and preservation of their special breed. Without people who are willing to undertake this daunting responsibility and devote their time, effort and a considerable amount of money to this task, every breed known today would ultimately become extinct. But how do you, as the perspective owner of a purebred kitten, find these reputable breeders?

As part of their commitment to purebred cats, reputable breeders also have a commitment to the cat Fancy in general. In a way, this is our professional association just like the Bar Association is the professional association for lawyers or the American Medical Association is the professional group for doctors. Involvement in the cat Fancy generally involves showing your cats. When a breeder exhibits the cats they have bred, they are getting together with other breeders and comparing how well they are meeting the standard of perfection for the breed that they are breeding. This helps the breeder to modify their breeding program if necessary. In addition, cat shows are where breeders of all breeds meet and compare notes on common cattery problems. This enables breeders to discuss current health protocols that pertain to multiple cat households as well as the current information on diseases, vaccines, genetics and the myriad of subjects that are necessary for reputable breeders to know.

Since reputable breeders have an involvement in the Fancy, this is a good place to start to find the breeder you want. Go to several cat shows in your area and meet the breeders who are exhibiting there. At the shows, you can see the breeders show quality cats and you will have time to talk with them. You will find a listing of cat shows in Cat Fancy.

If you cannot go to a cat show, you may contact the breeders listed in the breeder advertisement section of Cats USA or Cat Fancy. You will have the best luck catching the breeder when she has time to talk if you call in the evening and during the middle of the week. If your veterinarian works with breeders of purebred cats, and many do not as this is a specialized part of a veterinarian’s practice, he may be able to refer you to a breeder he feels is reputable. If you know the breed you are interested in but want further information, you can contact one of the national breed clubs. These breed societies are made up of breeders of the various breeds and you may contact them to find out more about the breed or to find a breeder in your area. A partial listing of these national breed clubs is listed in the back section of Cats USA. In addition, you may contact the cat registries themselves. You may then be referred to the head of the breed committee for the breed you are interested in. In this way you will also be able to get a list of breeders in your area.

The latest way of contacting breeders is through the on-line computer services such as “America Online” or “Prodigy”. Here you will find bulletin boards listing purebred kittens for sale or you may place your name on the bulletin board inquiring for purebred kittens. Many breeders will access this bulletin board on a routine basis and will respond directly to you on the computer. In addition, since breeders know each other and generally know who may have kittens available, most breeders can refer you to other breeders of the breed you want who may have kittens at the time you are looking for one. Once you have the name and telephone number of the breeder from the computer, you can call them and speak with
them directly.

It is important to spend some time with breeders because, as a perspective buyer, you will have many questions. You will want to make certain that the breed you have selected will fit your lifestyle. If you like a nice, calm lap cat who doesn’t jump much, you will want to look at the Persians and British Shorthairs. If you prefer a very active cat, you might want to look at the Abyssinians and the Japanese Bobtails. While most cats adapt easily to their home environment, you will be happier if you start with a cat who fits your lifestyle. Any breeder will be able to discuss the personalities of the cats with you. Reputable breeders want their kittens to be in homes where both the kitten and the owner are happy with each other. If you want a quiet cat and you talk to a Siamese breeder, they will tell you that this breed is not for you. Also, the amount of time you will be spending with the cat is important. There is nothing more beautiful than a Persian who is perfectly groomed. However, if you don’t have the time to brush your Persian everyday, you will find that your beautiful cat has knotted fur all over her body. This is not only no longer beautiful but it can even be dangerous as a knot of fur can cover the anus and your Persian will become unable to defecate! Do you have an alternative if the look of the Persian is the look you like? Of course. Acquire an Exotic Shorthair – a shorthaired Persian.

Questions to Ask a Breeder

1. What is the personality of this breed? (Is it active or placid)
2. How much grooming is required to keep this breed in top shape? (Daily brushing with a bristle brush or occasional brushing with a rubber brush)
3. Are there any genetic problems with this breed which will affect the cat in the future?
4. Are there any special dietary needs of this breed?
5. How big will the breed generally get?
6. How does this breed get along with other pets or with children?
7. Do you participate in a cattery inspection program?
8. What is in your contract?
9. Do you guarantee the health of your kittens, and does it come with a certificate of health signed by a veterinarian?
10. Do you provide copies of the blood tests that you have done to show that your cattery is free from contagious or infectious diseases?

Some exhibitors will sell kittens at the show, but many will only bring pictures of the kittens for you to see. This is for a distinct reasons. Many breeders will carefully check out the buyers of their kittens to make certain that these babies are going to the best home possible. For this reason, they may need time to check your veterinary references or even your home. So, for as many questions as you may have to ask the breeder, the breeder may have just as many to ask you. All breeders want to place their kittens in good home environments. They want to make certain that the kittens will be neutered and will not be allowed outdoors. They want to make certain that there are no contagious or infectious diseases in your home. If you have had a cat who has recently died, they will want to know how the cause of death. Don’t be offended by any of these questions. Remember that the breeder has raised this kitten and will always love it no matter where it lives. It is very important to the breeder to know that the kitten will have a good home.

Questions a Breeder May Ask You

1. How many cats do you have and how do you take care of them? (Are they neutered and are they kept indoors)
2. (If you had a cat who died recently, what was the cause of death and how long ago
   did your cat die?
3. Do you have children or other pets?
4. Are you out of the house during the day?
5. What is your lifestyle? Do you like it quiet or do you like some activity?
6. Are you able to physically take of a cat?
7. Do you understand that you will have to sign a contract in order to buy this kitten?
8. Do you realize that this kitten will have to be neutered and never used for breeding?
9. Are you prepared to keep this cat as a strictly indoor cat?
10. May I call your veterinarian and have him recommend you as an owner of a purebred kitten?

While it may take some work to find a reputable breeder of the breed you want to own, it is well worthwhile. When you hold your healthy, purebred kitten in your arms, hear its quiet purr and enjoy it while it explores its new home, all your efforts will be well rewarded.

Signs of a Reputable Breeder

1. The breeder only sells kittens as pets that must be neutered.
2. The breeder requires you to sign a contract which delineates both your rights as a buyer as well as what is required of you as an owner.
3. The breeder not only gives you a verbal guarantee of the health of the kitten, but also provides you with a certificate, signed by the Veterinarian who examined the kitten, of it’s health.
4. The breeder provides you with proof as to the health of her cattery in the form of blood tests on her cats showing that they are negative for contagious or infectious diseases.
5. The breeder explains about the personality and required care of the breed in question to make certain that this breed will fit your lifestyle.
6. The breeder charges a fair price for her kittens. (not such a low price that she is cutting corners on their care)
7. The breeder participates in a cattery inspection plan.
8. The breeder participates in the Fancy.
9. The breeder spends time talking with you but does not try to “oversell” her kittens.
10. The breeder is willing to provide names of others who own her kittens so that you may check with them on the reputation of the breeder.

Copyright 1995, 1997. Reprinted with permission. No further reproduction or use authorized, “without the consent of Carolyn Vella and John McGonagle.” All rights reserved.

by DUSTY RAINBOLT
Reprinted with permission from Cats magazine

In a Nutshell

• Taking care of orphaned kittens is not as difficult as it may seem.
• Your first priority is to keep the kittens warm.
• Kittens need help eliminating after they have eaten. It’s a vital part of your job.

When gazing at a helpless wad of fur, we can understand Prissys dilemma in Gone With the Wind. We don’t “know nothin’ ’bout” nursing feline babies, either. They may have been left motherless for countless reasons. The queen may have been hit by a car or trapped somewhere. Or she may simply be unable to nurse them due to a caesarian section or an illness.

But don’t despair. You’re perfectly able to take care of these poor little kittens. Your first priority is to keep the kittens warm, says Carie Johnston, DVM, who has 16 years of experience in bottle-feeding kitten orphans. She stresses that because kittens cannot shiver for their first seven to 10 days of life, warmth is a kitten’s most immediate need, more critical even than food.

You can make a warm nursery by placing a box halfway on a heating pad. Cover the nesting area with a towel or a light blanket. This should maintain the kittens’ body temperatures at 101° F to 102° F without getting them too hot. If you put the pad inside the box, make sure the kittens cannot crawl under the towel or come in direct contact with the pad. The box should be large enough for the kittens to crawl off the pad if they become too warm. Monitor the heat closely. If possible, use a heating pad designed for animals, as pads for humans can get dangerously hot.

Don’t let your other pets visit the kittens. While these little cuties may look harmless, they could expose your own cats to a host of contagious diseases. Also, since the kittens aren’t getting mom’s antibodies from her milk, they are vulnerable to diseases that your pets may be carrying.

Many orphans are crawling with fleas; the safest way to remove them is with a flea comb. When you are done handling the kittens, always wash your hands. Now it’s dinnertime. Don’t grab a bottle of whole milk. That’s a prescription for diarrhea. Buy a special kitten formula and nurser at a veterinary clinic or pet supply store. Kitten formula comes in a ready-to-use liquid or a powder. The liquids are much easier to use, but if you are feeding an entire litter over a five-week period, they can be expensive. Powdered formulas are a much better value and have a longer shelf life.

Have your veterinarian check the kittens for dehydration and evaluate their overall condition. While you’re there, ask her to show you how to feed your little charges. If they are too weak, the vet may have to place a special feeding tube directly into their stomachs. Don’t try this yourself unless your veterinarian has instructed you clearly in how to do it. Improperly done, the tube could slide down the trachea and send the formula straight into the lungs, drowning the kitten.

The hardest part of bottle- feeding is punching a hole in the bottle’s nipple. If the hole is too large, the formula can flow too fast, choking the kittens. But if it’s too small, they won’t be able to drink it. Once you’ve made the hole, test it yourself. When you’re satisfied with the flow rate, you can feed the babies.
Rest a kitten on his stomach (never his back) and insert the nipple into his mouth. Slowly pull up and forward on the bottle so that he will nurse with his head extended and slightly elevated. Watch the level of the formula: if the level remains constant, either the nipple is blocked, or the hole is too small. Make sure that the neck of the bottle remains filled with milk, so the kitten isn’t sucking air. Formula spewing out of the kitten’s nose means the hole is too big. If this happens, hold the kitten upside down until he stops coughing.

Most kittens have an automatic cut-off valve, and the nipple will usually pop right out of their mouth when they are full. However, as a guide, feed each kitten two tablespoons of formula daily for every four ounces of weight. Very small kittens should eat every four hours. Like human babies, they will let you know when they are hungry.

After he’s done, place the kitten against your shoulder, and, like a human baby, gently pat him until he burps. But your motherly duties are not quite finished yet.

Charlene Denney, the founder of the Hunt County Humane Society in Greenville, Texas, says her biggest concern is making sure foster mothers know how to help the kitten eliminate. “Unless you pee and poo them, you’re going to lose them,” she warns.

Denney, who has bottle-fed kittens for 20 years, says that until kittens are about three weeks old, they cannot make their bowels and bladder function on their own. She likes to use a warm, damp washcloth because its soft, but rough like the mothers tongue. Other foster moms may use moistened cotton balls. Gently stroke the genital area in circles, mimicking the mothers tongue.

“You just want to stimulate them, not hurt them,” she said. “Do this after you feed them and when they get cranky.”

Don’t panic if a kitten fails to have a bowel movement. Each kitten is different, and some do not go every day. (After four days, if the kitten still fails to pass a stool, contact your veterinarian.) Diarrhea is a more common and serious problem. At the first sign of the runs, dilute the formula just a little. If there is no improvement by the next day, see your veterinarian immediately. Kittens dehydrate very quickly.

“Weight loss indicates a loss of body fluid,” says Johnston. Therefore, the kittens’ weight should be monitored daily. “Check the skin tenting to test for dehydration. Pull the skin up. It should go back down pretty quick. If it doesn’t, he probably needs fluids.”

A warm, slightly damp washcloth gives a comforting bath to the kittens. Imitate the mother’s natural motions with soft, short strokes. Do this each time you stimulate them to eliminate. Otherwise the kittens could suffer from urine scalds, which are ammonia burns from leftover urine on the kittens’ behinds. And don’t let the kittens get cold as you wash them.

Sometime after three weeks, the kittens will become interested in solid food. Commercial weaning powders are available, but you can also make a mush of dry kitten food by soaking it in boiling water and then adding formula. When it has cooled, put a little on your finger and offer it to the kittens. Place the rest in a shallow bowl and let them walk through it. Although messy, it’s part of the learning process. Don’t forget to provide fresh water for them to drink.

Around the same time, you may find a little stool in the box. Congratulations! They can use the box on their own. God designed kittens well; they come pre-programmed with potty instructions.

“Keep them in a small area,” Denney says. “Even babies have an instinct not to pee and poo where they sleep. I put them in the litter pan after they eat.”

Make certain they don’t try to eat the litter, and use only non-clumping litter. They will dig and play and try to get out, but eventually they will use the litter box just like mature cats do.

Sometime between six and eight weeks, you will need to find them good homes. Ask potential adopters for some history. Ask what happened to their last pet and the name of their veterinarian. Also make sure they plan to get the kitten spayed or neutered. Are they willing to keep him for 18 years? Will they still want him if he scratches the furniture? If their kid becomes allergic, will they be willing to vacuum more and to bathe the cat? If he develops litter box problems, will they try to work through them and get him back on the road to acceptable hygiene? If they can’t answer “yes” to these questions, find him another home.

Draw up a contract. Ask for a nominal adoption fee to ensure that the person does not plan to sell a free kitten to a laboratory, feed it to a boa constrictor or use it for other like purposes. Ask to see identification and get a phone number. Legitimate adopters shouldn’t mind your caution.

When the time comes, kiss your baby’s goodbye and send them off to a wonderful new life that they wouldn’t have had without you. And don’t worry . . . now that you know how to do it, there will always be another motherless kitten who needs your tender loving care.

Dusty Rainbolt, who recently won the Purina Cat Chow Nutrition Award, has been involved in cat rescue since 1986 and cared for her first bottle-baby in 1990.

As Published in Cats Magazine, March 2001

The Kurilian Bobtail is medium to large in size, brawny with substantial boning, a strong cat, well muscled possessing a wild appearance.  The haircoat length can be either short or medium long.  However, the appearance of the Kurilian Bobtail is not indicative of it’s disposition.  They are a gentle breed with a well balanced character and a trusting and outgoing personality.  Able to “go with the flow” they adapt well to children and other pets. The Kurilian Bobtail is clever, inquisitive, highly intelligent, very people oriented and love to be caressed by their owners.  They can jump to great heights and take to the highest available spot to survey all that is in their domain.  They tend to be non-verbal except for a few musical trills that sound more like bird songs than cat calls.